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-   -   battery/charging system issue (http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31173)

R.S. 01-08-2011 11:33 AM

battery/charging system issue
 
Symptoms:

rotor/stator bell got hit punctured and metal particles flashed into the mechanism and caused some scouring etc.

I cleaned all that out.

Bike had sat for a few months w/o being started so batter was very low.

I recharged the battery, this took a long time.

Xj11 starts and runs, tach works fine so there is a signal coming of he rotor/stator

Bike battery runs down after driving it, wont stay charged, I can ride it for an hour or so but the battery will drain out, and I have to recharge it

Also, turn signal flashers wont signal unless the RPM's are high, needs to be revved

So, is it the battery, a short, or the charging system?

Whats a simple way to tell besides buying a new battery?

natemoen 01-08-2011 11:47 AM

I am guessing battery since the tach works and the signals flash at high rpms. Easy way to check is to bring the battery to an auto or battery store and have it checked, they do it for free. Also start the bike and check the voltage at the batter at idle and then at about 3000 rpms. Should be at 12ish at idle and 14+ at higher rpms.

crazy steve 01-08-2011 12:25 PM

Nate, he's got an XJ, so it sounds like a charging system issue.

Do check your output like Nate said, but I suspect the high rpm voltage amount may be low. Check your brushes on the rotor, because if they're worn too far the alternator won't reach full current output. You could also have this issue if the brushes are contaminated; did you use petroleum-based solvent to clean this out and get some on the brushes? Worn/contaminated brushes will give you just these symptoms; I suspect that's the problem.

Somebody else will have to chime in on where to find new brushes...

natemoen 01-08-2011 12:31 PM

Thats right, wasnt thinking. I would still have the battery checked either way as well. It only takes a couple minutes for the places to do it and its free.

DAVINCI 01-08-2011 04:05 PM

Quote:

Also, turn signal flashers wont signal unless the RPM's are high, needs to be revved.
Charging system is doing something, but as steve wrote, check the voltages


Quote:

crazy steve;Nate, he's got an XJ, so it sounds like a charging system issue.
Steve, do you mean the XJ doesn't get it's tach signal from the stator? Never owned one, so I don't know

crazy steve 01-08-2011 08:07 PM

No, the XJ tach works the same as the XS, just that the XJ has parts in it's charging system that can actually wear out and cause reduced output.

The no-wearable-moving-parts XS system is pretty much all or nothing...

petejw 01-08-2011 08:16 PM

run a multi-meter across your battery,
u should have at least 12 volts,

while the multi meter is still connected,
turn over the engine, the battery voltage
should only drop slightly, any more than 2 volts
and your battery has a buggered cell and youll need
a new one, using the starter motor is similar enuff
to putting a load tester on the battery.

if your battery is holding voltage, and with
the multi meter still connected to the battery
rev ur engine, the volts should rise to just over 14 volts,
if it doesnt or shows more than 15 volts then ur reg/rec is probably faulty.

rover 01-17-2011 06:34 PM

Battery/charging system issue
 
I think it was three years ago I had a charging problem. First, took my 1 year old battery to Auto Zone for the free test. They said "bad battery". I didn't really think so, bought a digital VOM at Fleet Farm, after an overnight battery charge, tested everything according to the manual. Found bad connector plugs in the regulator circuits. Temp jumpers, still had very little charging. Ordered a reg from Geezer, asked for the new plug connectors, he sent all of them, both ends, no extra charge. Replaced all, now have full charge at a much lower RPM, and STILL RUNNING THE SAME BATTERY!!! Does that say something about the integrity of the so called FREE battery testers?

bikerphil 01-17-2011 06:58 PM

When it comes to vehicle batteries I always say, "When in doubt, throw 'em out". Yeah, they want to sell you a new battery, or they don't know how to operate the tester correctly.

R.S. 01-30-2011 04:54 PM

Bah
Zero Ohms resistance between whites
and from each to the metal ring

Where do I find a stator for an Xj1100?

R.S. 02-04-2011 08:36 PM

I know that the rotor, and perhaps the housing for the XJ is different than the XS, but what about the stator?

There are a lot more XS stators on Ebay that Xj's

Thanks again

natemoen 02-04-2011 08:39 PM

Xs and XJ use different charging system setups.

R.S. 02-20-2011 07:32 PM

well damn...
 
So I order a stator from ebay, look at the white connector, its a bit melted, I figure who knows why..


Cut the (new melted ) connector off and replace it.
replacement stator works great, bike is charging... getting almost 14v at the battery...

ride a few miles and tac dies.. bike stops charging

white connector melted again

wires get real hot over 4k

guy sold me a bad stator?

skids 02-20-2011 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.S. (Post 312762)
ride a few miles and tac dies.. bike stops charging
white connector melted again
wires get real hot over 4k
guy sold me a bad stator?

The connector(s) behind the fuse panel get HOT if the connection is weak. I don't really think that the stator is bad. There is that possibility if the insulation is broken down in the windings to where it shorts when it gets hot, but I think that is only a remote chance. If you see a melted connection, I believe you know where the problem is. There is a chance that the Volt Regulator is allowing overvoltage, but even with that, a weak connection there will lead to heating and melting of the connector plastic.

natemoen 02-20-2011 10:03 PM

When you striped the wire to put the new plug on what did the wire look like under the insulation? Was it shiny copper or was it blackish green? If the wire strands are corrode they will create heat due to the excess resistance and melt/burn things. You may need to start cutting back the wire till you find good clean copper and then splice in new wire to give you that needed length.


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