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-   -   The XS11 died with all lights out at once. (http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33248)

CheckMark 07-02-2011 10:42 PM

The XS11 died with all lights out at once.
 
A couple days before my 1979 XS1100SF Special died two blocks from the house. It died for a lack of fuel. I could see pinched and kinked fuel lines under the seat behind the petcocks but left all tools at the house so I had no way to lift seat and tank to fix.

A few days later I had time to get at those kinked lines and trim the excess hose from them. After fixing those fuel lines the bike fired right up. I got her warmed up with about 5 minutes of idling the engine. And headed for town to fill the tank.
About two blocks into the trip just after engaging signal for a left turn the engine died. All lights went out, starter button would not turn the starter nothing.
After I got home and pull the seat I checked the battery and found 12.7 volts.Next I bridged the contacts of the starter relay and she flipped right over briskly. I checked the fuse block and all appeared good one was displaced into an inline holder from an apparent repair by previous owner. I pulled the headlight bucket and tank to see if anything came loose and so far can't find anything loose or amiss except for one. A loose connection at the battery negative terminal. I could wiggle the cable and watch the negative post move. So I tightened it and that had no affect. The lights, starter, horn, all electrics remain dead.

I am at a total loss for where or what to check next. Can the CDI box cause this? I have a friend bring one over to plug in and see what happens. Or is there something else I should check?

I really need help with this one.

:confused:

bikerphil 07-02-2011 11:05 PM

If your fuses are confirmed good, might want to check the ign. switch connector in the headlight bucket. They can melt/corrode and cut off all the power to the bike. A blown 30A main fuse will do the same.

BA80 07-02-2011 11:18 PM

Check the ground cable from your battery for good contact to the frame. Also there are several, 3 I believe, ground wires that connect to the frame with one of the mounting bolts for the rectifier/regulator that can corrode or come loose.

DGXSER 07-03-2011 12:43 PM

I'm with Phil, if you are certain your main fuse is good, then I'd pull the ignition switch, check connectors, open it up and clean the inside of the switch as well.

BA80 07-03-2011 01:20 PM

OK, maybe I'm crazy but if the main fuse is blown or the ignition switch is bad how did the electricity jump across it when he used the jumper cables and it started? :confused:

TopCatGr58 07-03-2011 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BA80 (Post 332177)
OK, maybe I'm crazy but if the main fuse is blown or the ignition switch is bad how did the electricity jump across it when he used the jumper cables and it started? :confused:

Hey Greg,
His statement was
Quote:

Next I bridged the contacts of the starter relay and she flipped right over briskly.
"Flipped over" I believe was his way of saying that the engine spun easily when the starter motor engaged, but I don't think he said that it actually started. With the Main fuse blown, shorting the battery cable across the solenoid will turn the starter motor, but that's all, it won't actually start.

Words and phrasing can be tricky/misleading sometimes! ;)
T.C.

BA80 07-03-2011 01:59 PM

Ok dammit! Must be the oldtimers disease kicking in again. I was relating this post to another...........somewhere.......

Something about losing power but would start if jumped from another battery and so on and so forth.





Can someone show me the way to the home? :confused:

CheckMark 07-03-2011 10:58 PM

Thanks for all your help I'm getting close to the problem.
 
Tonight I went out and ohmed across the main fuse it checked zero ohms. Then I replaced it and measured with a voltmeter across that fuse and found 12.5 volts. Indicating one end of it must be open. I squeezed the fuse holder clips closer together and replaced the main 30 amp fuse. Next when I looked at my instrument cluster I saw the neutral light lit. I pressed the start button and she started right up. I killed the engine and placed my finger on that 30 amp fuse it was hot to the touch even several minutes after turning the engine off it was hot.

Now my question is it normal for that fuse to remain hot with motor off, switch on, headlight removed and signals off? What is typically done to sweeten the fuse block connections?

crazy steve 07-04-2011 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheckMark (Post 332236)
Now my question is it normal for that fuse to remain hot with motor off, switch on, headlight removed and signals off? What is typically done to sweeten the fuse block connections?

Nope, shouldn't have any heat even with everything hooked up and working. The fuse panels in these are known failure points, and the usual fix is replace it. TC (post # 6) sells a nice, compact replacement for $10 including shipping. Do a search for 'TC fuse panel', you'll get lots of hits and pics...

mack 07-04-2011 05:58 AM

TC Fuse Block
 
Here is TC unit installed in 79 SF

http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...kinstalled.jpg

CheckMark 07-04-2011 07:02 AM

TC fuse panel
 
I like the look of that fuse panel install. What are the extra fuse holders used for? Just before seeing this post I did an eBay search for XS 1100 fuse block and found an OEM look a like replacement being sold for $39. Another seller is listing 1NL-W8215-00-00 replacement clips for $29.95. Still looking for that TC panel Steve. Still coming up to speed on forum search tool here. I am pulling the panel today and see what is going on behind it today.

DGXSER 07-04-2011 09:29 AM

Yeh, that fuse should be cool as a cucumber after riding for 3 hours. Sounds liek you have a loose connection so the juice is having to arc across the gap and that will cause heat.

The fuse box TC sells is a really nice piece, and installs very easily, it is only $11 or so, look in the classifieds area I think or even in the tech tips is a thread on the upgrade and how to buy it. Or simply send TC a PM and he will guide you, easy purchase and easy install.

fredintoon 07-04-2011 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheckMark (Post 332236)
- - - Now my question is it normal for that fuse to remain hot with motor off, switch on, headlight removed and signals off? What is typically done to sweeten the fuse block connections?

Hi Mike,
the main 30Amp fuse takes battery power to the ignition switch and should be electrically hot all the time.
It should also be at ambient temperature all the time, not hot at all.
Best is to replace the entire glass tube fuse box with a 6-way spade fuse box. TC's $10 unit works great or you can look for a similar unit locally.

CheckMark 07-04-2011 01:49 PM

I just stumbled across this replacement fuse box
 
Hi everyone I just stumbled across this fuse box a bit pricey but looks like it would make a good install candidate for the 1100 series. It takes the newer style double spade fuse (8) and is 3 1/4" X 2 1/4" X 1 1/8" thick. Screw terminal and lugs with nylock nuts capture main cables of the bike to the block.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...fuseboxes.html

There is an installation example page to gawk at even.

$60

natemoen 07-04-2011 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheckMark (Post 332314)
Hi everyone I just stumbled across this fuse box a bit pricey but looks like it would make a good install candidate for the 1100 series. It takes the newer style double spade fuse (8) and is 3 1/4" X 2 1/4" X 1 1/8" thick. Screw terminal and lugs with nylock nuts capture main cables of the bike to the block.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...fuseboxes.html

There is an installation example page to gawk at even.

$60

Nope. Max circuit capacity is only 20 amp and your main fuse is a 30 amp circuit.

Why not just get the one from TC?


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