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Old 03-29-2006, 07:37 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
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Clutch Plates Replacement and Extra Steel


Clutch Plates Replacement: (Extra Steel-NOW NOT RECOMMENDED!!)

A Pictorial Walkthru by TopCat
Part 1


Hey there folks. I had rebuilt my clutch with new friction plates and springs about 5 years but only about 5K miles ago, however it started presenting with symptoms of slippage in 5th gear under hard acceleration! So, I decided to tear into it and find out what was wrong, worn or burnt friction plates, burnt steel plates, compressed springs, etc.? While I was at it, due to the total age of the clutch basket and wear of the primary and secondary pressure plates, decided to add an extra steel plate to the basket to act like putting shims under the springs! So, I took my digital camera along and snapped some shots so I could post this little "walkthru" to possibly help others perform this repair without the aid of a manual!

It has been stated that you don't necessarily need to drain the oil, just put it on the side stand or lay it down!? I prefered to drain the oil since it was time for a filter/oil change anyways! Plus, I don't like putting wrenching pressures on the engine using just the side stand! After draining oil, remove the 2 screws to the clutch adjuster access plate. Next, pry up the little retainer prong that keeps the end of the clutch cable in it's holder,us a large flat blade screwdriver to pry up the clutch lever to create slack to take the end out. I also loosened and removed the right foot peg nut/bolt and peg to allow easier access to all of the clutch case bolts and to facilitate it's removal and installation!

Quote:
**Addendum** This tip was written many years ago prior to our realizing that not all heavy duty clutch springs are the same! Aside from the good info below regarding the process of disassembling and reassembling the clutch basket, inspecting and cleaning the steels/frictions, we NOW HIGHLY SUGGEST that you install BARNETT Heavy Duty Springs instead of adding the extra steel plate. The Barnett springs are much better/stiffer and hold up much longer than oem type HD springs. They will make the lever pull a little tougher, but with properly lubricated cable and greased throwout parts, it's really not much harder than the OEMs.


Place the bike in an upper gear, 2nd or higher, and then you can wedge a piece of wood between the rear spokes and frame to prevent it from turning when you are trying to loosen the main clutch hub nut!!



Next, using a 12mm box end wrench and phillips screwdriver, unlock the clutch adjuster lock nut, and then turn the throwout rod a full turn or two CCW/out from where it is, and gently relock the nut. This it to allow room when reinstalling the clutch case, since the starplate and bearing will be sticking out further from the engine after the new friction and steel plates are placed!
WARNING Don't rotate the clutch lever after this, the bearings on the inside are held in place, but can fall out if you move the lever arm!!



This shows that little clutch boss retaining wire sticking out thru a hole,DON'T REMOVE or CUT THIS WIRE!!



Next, loosen the 6 StarPlate bolts, giving them a good full turn on each bolt walking around the star to evenly loosen it!



Once the StarPlate is removed, you can get the springs out, and now you have access to the MAIN CLUTCH HUB NUT!



Now, with a caliper, you can check the length of the springs, they should be UNCOMPRESSED and should measure 41.8mm or longer! You can see by the readout that this spring in UNDER SPEC!



And here is a new spring, just OVER SPEC!



Next, take a stout screwdriver and gently tap and bend out flat the bent up edges of the lock washer from around the main nut!



Use one of the StarPLate bolts and springs, and put them back on with a few turns to slightly compress the spring, this helps keep the pressure plate and clutch boss and basket together while you loosen the main nut!
After you have loosened the main nut, either with a torque wrench using a 27mm socket, or an IMPACT WRENCH , you can remove the lock washer, and the thick washer from underneath! Look at the clutch shaft, and notice how much of a depression there is between the splines and the outer edge of the clutch boss, this will help you to tell if you've got the clutch assembly back on the shaft and all the way in when you are putting it back together!



Now you can pull the clutch basket off of the shaft. It might take some wiggling, rotating to help it become disengaged from the oil pump gear(vertical Red arrows), and the primary drive gear(vertical Green Arrows). You will want to put the bike back into neutral to fascilitate rotating the basket! Just spin the rear tire to help shift the gears! Behind the basket, you'll find a large thick collar sleeve/washer that fits into the basket, along with the large thick thrust washer. Just leave the thrust washer and sleeve on the shaft for now.



End Part 1
__________________
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!