View Single Post
  #2  
Old 04-14-2010, 09:14 PM
TopCatGr58's Avatar
TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,619
Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part 2

Next, you can use a phillips screwdriver into the holes to grasp the axle and remove it, also suggest a gentle hammer tap on the other end to assist!


Next, you'll need to lift up the brake caliper assembly to provide clearance for the wheel/tire to be shifted to the right. I used a spare bolt to hold it, you may want to use a bungy cord, etc.! The "Special" spacer has already been removed. Take PHOTOS to help remember their reassembly order/position!


Then push/pull the rear wheel towards the right so that it can slide off of the FD splines.


Then wiggle the wheel/tire at an angle and downwards in between the FD and the right swingarm keeping the brake assembly up and out of the way!

Then it will be able to be removed out from under the fender. Deflating the tire can also help getting it past the FD/Swingarm!


With the wheel out, you can see the Splines that need to be cleaned and regreased, don't forget that large thick rubber washer. You will want to remove and install the NEW tire before doing the greasing!

It's also a good time to inspect the bearings. The inner sleeve of the large left side roller pin bearing can slide outwards, but there shouldn't be any lateral slop, or grinding/notched feeling when you spin/rotate it. Same for the right side bearing. See other tech tip for bearing R&R!




To remove the FD, loosen and remove the 4 lock nuts that hold it to the Swingarm, as well as the lower shock nut!


You can see the Drive shaft splines in the swingarm, as well as in the end of the FD that both need cleaning/regreasing. Don't loose that Spring!




Please see the FRONT TIRE PICTORIAL for more detailed info on removing and replacing the old and new tires! A combination of tools may be required! Forgive the Non-plastic shielded tire irons!


Next is the setup using a pair of jackstands, and the axle to balance the tire. The hard part was getting the weights from the auto store! Spinning the tire until is stops, if it stops at same location...it's heavy there, put some weight opposite the bottom, and repeat until you get variable stopping points!
Other techniques are also available, your choice!


Here's the new Elite 3 mounted/inflated, same width setting on calipers, note space!! YMMV!


Here's the tire/rim mounted back on the bike! Just repeat removal process to install! May require a little wiggling of the brake assembly to fit pads back down around the rotor, don't forget the torsion stop pin fitting on the front of the caliper bracket. Also, don't forget the special SPACER next to the wheel before the brake bracket assembly. I applied grease to the dust seal as well as the axle. Reinsert the Axle till it hits the shoulder on the right side against the brake bracket. Then tighten the castle axle nut to the require torque, replace cotter pin. Then tighten the axle pinch bolt on the right side to torque. Replace MUFFLER!


And you can sorta see from this view from the bottom the extra clearance of the Elite 3 and the swingarm. That's an extra bar I welded to the swingarm for more bracing in an attempt to reduce the swingarm flex! YMMV


Hope this will be helpful to the masses!
__________________
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!