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Old 02-11-2012, 09:10 AM
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trbig trbig is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
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Install the other 5 bearing halves in this side and lube.









If you haven't addressed the gears before this point, it's time. Here's the gears from left to right. Middle drive gear, 1st gear, 4th gear, 3rd gear, 2nd gear, 5th gear.









With the problems many of these bikes have with 1st and 2nd gear, it's been suggested to move the washer seen here behind this circlip and on the front side of 2nd gear...









Remove the circlip and the washer beneath it.









After the circlip and the washer are removed, you can remove 2nd gear. When reinstalling, you'd put the washer on first, then 2nd gear. Sorry about this pic, but at this point on the shaft where the washer will now sit, it is a bit of a rounded joint where the arrow points. Some people will chamfer the washer's edge so this helps it sit more flush against the shoulder of this shaft. I don't do this, but you're welcome to. If you don't, 2nd gear spins a little bit tightly by hand, but will loosen up quickly after it's ridden.









Here's the washer now on the back side of 2nd gear.









And the circlip re-installed... Some people have a problem with the thought of 2nd gear now spinning against this circlip instead of a washer. I've had transmissions back apart after riding many thousands of miles with them this way, and there's virtually no wear on any of the circlips I've seen.









Next, flip the gears over to the middle drive gear side.









The middle drive gear and 1st gear will slide off the shaft. this will reveal a washer.









I tried an experiment once with this washer. Since moving 2nd towards 5th gear seemed to work so well, I thought that by moving 1st gear closer to 4th, it would help that problem also. I found a place that had this size washer exactly half the thickness of the original. I placed one of those washers where the original one is and placed the other one on the back side of 1st. This moved 1st gear towards 4th exactly half the distance of the stock washer. It was not good. While riding in 4th, the dogs of 4th gear would grind slightly against the lands of 1st gear. It quickly wiped out my 1st gear on the bike. Failed experiment.

Anyway, under that washer is a circlip. Remove this circlip and you can remove 4th gear.









The only reason you'd remove 1st or 4th gear, would be if you were touching them up with a Dremmel to get them squared back up again.









In this case, Jamie has been kind enough to spring for brand new gears, so no Dremmel work for me on this one. New 1st and 4th.... as well as 2nd and 5th. I've never seen a problem with 3rd on these. The dogs on 4th gear that engage 3rd gear are beveled correctly already.









Slide 5th gear off the shaft, and install the shaft into the case from the bottom side as shown.









Set the shaft into the bearing on the case half and install 5th gear.









This gear shaft is held tight against the case by a washer headed bolt. This bolt goes into the shaft on the clutch side (Middle drive and 1st gear side). this bolt has a tendency to back out and get eaten by the gear on the back of the clutch basket, so be sure and use lock -tite of some sort on this bolt after you clean and dry it. Torque the bolt to spec.









Next, take the shift fork gear shaft. You'll notice a dowel pin behind a circlip next to the small gear. The shaft is also notched to make room for the middle drive gear on the set of gears you just installed.








As you slide this shift fork shaft through the motor, the dowel pin will sit in a notch in the case shown here.









Before sliding the shift fork shaft through the motor, locate your shift forks. You will see them numbered 1, 2, and 3 shown here.









As you are looking into the motor here, from left to right the shift forks will be in order 1-3. You will install the shift fork shaft from the right side, so the first fork you'd install will be #3. Situate the fork so that the forks go around 4th gear, and the nipple on the back side of the fork goes into the race/groove on the shift cam behind it.. shown with the arrow here.









Next is shift fork #2. It's fork is situated up out of the gears between 2nd and 3rd gear. I repeat.... this fork is situated up with the nipple on the back in the groove of the shift cam behind it as well. It operates another set of gears, not these.









Finally, shift fork #1 is installed onto the shaft. It's fork goes around 5th gear with the nipple in the back in it's groove on the shift cam.









I then install the two circlips on the shift fork shaft so it can't back out and I don't lose them. At this point, the dowel pin next to the gear will be sitting in that notch cut in the case on the clutch side.









To be continued...
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Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own