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Old 02-11-2012, 09:13 AM
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trbig trbig is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
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When you reinstall this middle driven gear, you might think you're missing one of the half-moon clips. The front side has two as you can see, but the back side only has one. You are supposed to install this so it sits half in the lower case and half in the upper case as shown.









Next, install the main gear shaft that your pinion gears are on and that your clutch basket will be mounted to. Notice this dowel pin on this bearing. Situate it against the case here. The notch for it is in the other case half. *Note* The last '78 motor I took apart didn't have this dowel pin, so I think it was added later to keep the bearing from spinning in the cases.









After you clean up the mating surfaces of the two cases well, making them clean from dirt and oil, you are ready to use something to seal the case halves. Some like the Yamabond, but I prefer the Threebond 1194. Either will work.









You have to work fairly quickly here. Run a bead all around the UPPER case half and smear the sealant evenly with your finger. You want enough to cover, but not copious amounts. just a nice even layer that will squish and seal nicely. You want to do this to the upper half since the crank is in the lower half and getting this sealant around that is a PITA.









*CRITICAL*: Make sure, when running the sealant around the crank bearing lobes, that you leave a bit of a gap by the edge of the bearing. You need to get around this hole to seal it, but if any of the sealant squishes into the bearing, it will likely ruin it on startup.









After the sealant skins over for @ a minute, pick up that half and set it on top of the other. At this point, you need to pay attention to that shift fork #2 (Shown with this arrow) that faced a different direction than the others. It needs to go down into the groove of the pinion gear below it. You may need to spin the gears a bit to get them all meshed right and the case halves will drop together.









I like to tap around on the case with a rubber mallet to make sure the halves are mated and together good.









When I disassembled the motor, I took a piece of cardboard and punched a bunch of holes in it, then numbered them 1-34. You'll actually need 35 holes though since there's two number elevens.









Where every bolt goes on the cases, it has a number next to it. Just stick the bolts in the appropriate holes and torque them down in order. I run all of them down until they just touch the case, then go back and torque them. This side of the cases will take bolts 1-22.

Flip the engine over, and the rest of the bolts from 23-34 will be used. Don't forget the one bolt under the breather cover. Torque to spec in order. *NOTE* When disassembling the motor, you'd start at #34 and work your way backwards.









Under the shifter cover, the bearing for the gear shaft and an oil nozzle were originally held in place by a torx head screw. I hate these and always replace them with a matching phillips head screw. My local True Value Hardware store carries them. You are welcome to re-use the torx screws. The factory manual recommends locktite on these.









Here's the bearing...









And here's the oil nozzle. Make sure this O-ring is there and in good shape.









And here they are installed with the new phillips screws.









Next is the shift shaft assembly with the shifter spring.









Make sure to install the spring legs around this post.









Next is the shift lever.









Remove the outside circlip you've installed on the shift fork shaft and install this. The spring loaded arm goes over the shift cam. In 2nd gear, all these dots and lines will line up if installed correctly.









Next, the starter clutch shaft bearing. Check these O-rings and install. This bearing is a tight fit and might need a light tapping with a rubber mallet.









When I install the screws for this, I leave them hand tight. Once you attach the starter to the motor, it fits in with this bearing cover and you can perfectly align them to match before snugging down the bolts.









Next comes the clutch. Install the correct washer that goes behind the clutch basket.









If you've taken apart the clutch basket (Or someone else may have) there's a similar washer inside the clutch basket that will interchange with this one, except it is slightly bigger. Make sure that when the washer is installed against the bearing, you can still see the bearings past the washer. The other washer will cover the bearings completely and eventually starve the bearing of oil, causing it to fail.









Next comes the clutch basket and it's bushing. Sometimes getting the clutch basket on all the way can be a chore, but when you're done, the shaft should be close to flush with the basket surface as shown. *Note* Some people add an extra steel disc into the clutch basket. This will cause this basket to stick out the thickness of that one disc further than what you see here.









Put on the washer, lock washer, and torque the nut. Don't forget to bend the edge of the lock washer over against the nut.









Install the springs....









Then install the star plate and 6 bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly a turn or two at a time to make sure the star plate goes on evenly. These break easily if you don't do this.









To torque these 6 bolts, locate a notch at the top right of the clutch basket shown here...









Install a screwdriver between the gear and the notch, and you can easily hold the basket still to torque the bolts.









Next, inspect your oil pump O-ring.









Install the oil pump so that the oil pump gear meshes with the small gear that is on the end of the shift fork shaft.









*CRITICAL*: Clean and dry the allen bolts used to attach the oil pump as well as up inside the motor where they go. Apply some Loc-tite or similar to these bolts. These are the three bolts that Bob Embry had back out enough so that the oil pump wasn't being driven by the small gear. Zero oil pressure is not a good thing.









Install your oil pan before moving the motor around. The oil pump hangs down lower than the case halves and you will damage it if you don't.


Continued...
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Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own