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Old 08-01-2004, 09:21 AM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,621
1st and 2nd gear Dremmel Fix Pt1

Tranny Fix 1st and 2nd Gears Dremmel Technique

A walkthru by TopCat
**Special thanks to Ken Talbot's pages**

Okay, this writeup is from a repair to the 1st and 2nd gears of an 82XJ, but will include information for the XS as well. There really is only a couple of external differences when working on the XJ vs. the XS for this purpose. Let's get started. I recommend the "Flip the bike on it's back" technique to work on the tranny, vs. hoisting or jacking the bike up and laying on "your" back. Aside from the pains in your back, possibly getting oil and dirt in your eyes, it's also very difficult to work with the shift forks, they like to fall out and it's a bit tough putting them back in as well in this position!
Preparation to flip the bike: remove the gas tank, either drain or remove the carbs to prevent the gas in the bowls from leaking out. Remove the seat, and if it has a high plastic grab rail on the rear attached to the metal seat grab rail(XJ specific) you'll want to remove it so that the weight will be directly on the metal parts just above the seat/fender. On the XJ, this creates a nice angle between the rear support and the handlebars, and prevents pressure from being exerted on the gauges. The XJ's square bars are or at least seem much stronger than the traditional round bars, and can easily support the bike's weight. On the XS, you might want to invest in a cheap pair of handlebars that you won't mind getting bent...if they do get bent under the pressure/force applied to them during the flipping process. You will also want to have some jack stands, or something that you can place under the frame rails where the gas tank was to support the weight of the bike to keep it up off the bars/gauges once it's flipped....mostly for the XS.

Drain the rear wheel differential fluid. Drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter cover as well. Plug the vent hose for the middle gear, or drain it also. Remove the controls from the handlebars, brake/clutch/mirrors, allowing them to dangle or tie them against the fork tubes. If you have a fairing, remove it, along with any turn signals/stalks on the side that you will be laying it towards, I perfered to lay it down on the left hand side, nearest the side stand. Also recommended having a nice old carpet to lay it on in your garage. Depending on your exhaust pipes, you may want to remove them, or at least the muffler section if worried about pressure on them when you lay it down.

Next, you'll need to loosen the nut/bolt that holds the driver's foot pegs, so that you can pivot them up out of the way to get access to the side covers, clutch and gear shift lever covers.
MAKE SURE YOU PUT IT IN 4TH GEAR, before removing the shift lever. This helps in the removal process later, and also for loosening the main clutch basket nut and the counter shaft bolt. Remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever, then remove the clutch cover, the gear shift foot lever and it's cover, then the internal shift lever(note the alignment of the 2 dots on the teeth between the shift lever and the shift pawl/lever assembly).

Now you need to remove the clutch basket. I've included several pictures showing the basket and the star pressure plate because this plate is very fragile and can easily be broken when putting it back together if you get it misaligned with the mounting shafts of the #2 pressure plate.
See pictures #10 and #11 below.

In #11, it shows the main clutch nut, it's locking washer which you'll need to bend down flat to allow loosening of this nut, it's supposed to be torqued on with 51 ft/lbs! This is where you need to put the piece of wood into the rear spokes to lock the clutch from turning.

Then take a torque wrench and turn it CCW to loosen. The Clutch Nut is a 27mm size socket!

There is a thick washer underneath the locking tab washer, and there is a large spacer washer behind the basket, along with a large collar washer/bearing that the clutch assembly slides on, just pay attention to how they fit together when you remove the basket.

"A tip"...take one spring and star plate bolt and put it back onto the clutch basket and finger tighten before pulling the basket, this can help keep the plates from shifting around too much and will facilitate putting it back onto the shaft later with more ease!!! While you're here, loosen the countershaft bolt and remove it as well.

It's also supposed to be at 51 ft/lbs!!

Now is when I flip the bike..remember to remove the wood!!! I was able to do this with just myself and my wife. I first layed it down on it's side, then I got an 8 foot long piece of 2x4 as a lever for the wife and placed it under the engine and frame near the rear of the engine. I grabbed the front wheel securely to keep it from spinning and the handlebars from twisting, then as I lifted the wheel putting the leverage pressure against the handlebars and rear seat support, the wife used the 2x4 and helped lift/push the bike up and over onto it's back, me doing the most stabilizing with the front wheel/handlebars assembly. If you have several friends around, it can be even easier, or use a hoist, chain lift if your garage is so equipped!?

On to Part 2>

Last edited by crazy steve; 06-20-2012 at 07:05 PM.