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Old 01-08-2011, 11:33 AM
R.S. R.S. is offline
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Question battery/charging system issue

Symptoms:

rotor/stator bell got hit punctured and metal particles flashed into the mechanism and caused some scouring etc.

I cleaned all that out.

Bike had sat for a few months w/o being started so batter was very low.

I recharged the battery, this took a long time.

Xj11 starts and runs, tach works fine so there is a signal coming of he rotor/stator

Bike battery runs down after driving it, wont stay charged, I can ride it for an hour or so but the battery will drain out, and I have to recharge it

Also, turn signal flashers wont signal unless the RPM's are high, needs to be revved

So, is it the battery, a short, or the charging system?

Whats a simple way to tell besides buying a new battery?
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:47 AM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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I am guessing battery since the tach works and the signals flash at high rpms. Easy way to check is to bring the battery to an auto or battery store and have it checked, they do it for free. Also start the bike and check the voltage at the batter at idle and then at about 3000 rpms. Should be at 12ish at idle and 14+ at higher rpms.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2011, 12:25 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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Nate, he's got an XJ, so it sounds like a charging system issue.

Do check your output like Nate said, but I suspect the high rpm voltage amount may be low. Check your brushes on the rotor, because if they're worn too far the alternator won't reach full current output. You could also have this issue if the brushes are contaminated; did you use petroleum-based solvent to clean this out and get some on the brushes? Worn/contaminated brushes will give you just these symptoms; I suspect that's the problem.

Somebody else will have to chime in on where to find new brushes...
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Last edited by crazy steve; 01-08-2011 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:31 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Thats right, wasnt thinking. I would still have the battery checked either way as well. It only takes a couple minutes for the places to do it and its free.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

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  #5  
Old 01-08-2011, 04:05 PM
DAVINCI DAVINCI is offline
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Quote:
Also, turn signal flashers wont signal unless the RPM's are high, needs to be revved.
Charging system is doing something, but as steve wrote, check the voltages


Quote:
crazy steve;Nate, he's got an XJ, so it sounds like a charging system issue.
Steve, do you mean the XJ doesn't get it's tach signal from the stator? Never owned one, so I don't know
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:07 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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No, the XJ tach works the same as the XS, just that the XJ has parts in it's charging system that can actually wear out and cause reduced output.

The no-wearable-moving-parts XS system is pretty much all or nothing...
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Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...

Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2011, 08:16 PM
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petejw petejw is offline
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run a multi-meter across your battery,
u should have at least 12 volts,

while the multi meter is still connected,
turn over the engine, the battery voltage
should only drop slightly, any more than 2 volts
and your battery has a buggered cell and youll need
a new one, using the starter motor is similar enuff
to putting a load tester on the battery.

if your battery is holding voltage, and with
the multi meter still connected to the battery
rev ur engine, the volts should rise to just over 14 volts,
if it doesnt or shows more than 15 volts then ur reg/rec is probably faulty.
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  #8  
Old 01-17-2011, 06:34 PM
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Battery/charging system issue

I think it was three years ago I had a charging problem. First, took my 1 year old battery to Auto Zone for the free test. They said "bad battery". I didn't really think so, bought a digital VOM at Fleet Farm, after an overnight battery charge, tested everything according to the manual. Found bad connector plugs in the regulator circuits. Temp jumpers, still had very little charging. Ordered a reg from Geezer, asked for the new plug connectors, he sent all of them, both ends, no extra charge. Replaced all, now have full charge at a much lower RPM, and STILL RUNNING THE SAME BATTERY!!! Does that say something about the integrity of the so called FREE battery testers?
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2011, 06:58 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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When it comes to vehicle batteries I always say, "When in doubt, throw 'em out". Yeah, they want to sell you a new battery, or they don't know how to operate the tester correctly.
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2011, 04:54 PM
R.S. R.S. is offline
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Bah
Zero Ohms resistance between whites
and from each to the metal ring

Where do I find a stator for an Xj1100?
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  #11  
Old 02-04-2011, 08:36 PM
R.S. R.S. is offline
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I know that the rotor, and perhaps the housing for the XJ is different than the XS, but what about the stator?

There are a lot more XS stators on Ebay that Xj's

Thanks again
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2011, 08:39 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Xs and XJ use different charging system setups.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2011, 07:32 PM
R.S. R.S. is offline
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well damn...

So I order a stator from ebay, look at the white connector, its a bit melted, I figure who knows why..


Cut the (new melted ) connector off and replace it.
replacement stator works great, bike is charging... getting almost 14v at the battery...

ride a few miles and tac dies.. bike stops charging

white connector melted again

wires get real hot over 4k

guy sold me a bad stator?
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2011, 09:07 PM
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skids skids is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.S. View Post
ride a few miles and tac dies.. bike stops charging
white connector melted again
wires get real hot over 4k
guy sold me a bad stator?
The connector(s) behind the fuse panel get HOT if the connection is weak. I don't really think that the stator is bad. There is that possibility if the insulation is broken down in the windings to where it shorts when it gets hot, but I think that is only a remote chance. If you see a melted connection, I believe you know where the problem is. There is a chance that the Volt Regulator is allowing overvoltage, but even with that, a weak connection there will lead to heating and melting of the connector plastic.
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2011, 10:03 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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When you striped the wire to put the new plug on what did the wire look like under the insulation? Was it shiny copper or was it blackish green? If the wire strands are corrode they will create heat due to the excess resistance and melt/burn things. You may need to start cutting back the wire till you find good clean copper and then splice in new wire to give you that needed length.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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