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  #1  
Old 06-16-2012, 12:03 PM
JosephM JosephM is offline
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Polished Bare Metal XS Tank

http://www.flickr.com/photos/joevmathews/

I saw this tank on another forum - I am thinking about the same thing on my bike. Curious about anyone that has tried this. My obvious concern is rust. I thought about a clear coat or a clear powdercoat (but, I think that might be out because I just epoxied the innards of the tank and it won't handle the heat of powdercoating). Someone has even suggested simply painting the underside and just waxing the exposed bits every week.

I do have a few dings that I want to clear up w/body filler. Curious if anyone has experience with any metallic type paints?
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2012, 12:26 PM
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jwhughes3 jwhughes3 is offline
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Paint

I have seen another tank like that here but cant find the thread. It was painted with a chrome mettalic paint subsequently sanded and polished and looked just like bare metal.

I think you would have an easier time making the mirror finish look with paint than actually getting the metal perfect.

John
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2012, 01:18 PM
JosephM JosephM is offline
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Metallic Paint

I agree. I will have to bondo it to clean up the few dings. But, I actually like it looking a bit rough - as opposed to mirror perfect. I like the hammered aluminium look.
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  #4  
Old 06-16-2012, 08:50 PM
CaptonZap CaptonZap is offline
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You're almost there! CHROME IT!!
Or at least nickle plate.
The liner won't make any difference to a plate job.
CZ
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  #5  
Old 06-16-2012, 09:56 PM
daveyg daveyg is offline
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Could you nickel plate over body filler or would you have to lead fill the dents for nickel playing to hold? I think the one in your pics is gorgeous! Somebody has some serious time in wet sanding and buffing!
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:24 AM
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xs11lover xs11lover is offline
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Polisheed bare metal tank

I did mine last summer. It still looks the same as the day I did it, but it hasn't left the garage yet. I too was thinking clear coat but I don't think it will stick. I think I will just let it go and if I see any rust starting I'll get it painted.
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  #7  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:47 AM
Shacknasty Shacknasty is offline
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Nice polished tank. Y'all must not ever ride in the sun!!!

Check out Gibbs metal protectant.
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  #8  
Old 06-17-2012, 06:00 AM
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Aches n Pains Aches n Pains is offline
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XS11lover,

I'd love to see a picture of that tank on the bike. Really interested in the idea and think it would be pretty easy to keep clean as long as you don't leave it outside and uncovered.

Aches n Pains
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:40 AM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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Looks great, but I agree with Shack, get out for a nice fay long ride in the sun, I would think the glare off that in your face would get obnoxious. Yeah I know, dang engineer, looks mean nothing, all about function.
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2012, 09:33 AM
CaptonZap CaptonZap is offline
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Air Stream, the company that makes travel trailers, uses polished aluminum for the body shells. They coat it with a clear coat, which is, it seems, impervious to every thing.
A call to their technical support line, 1-877-596-6505, may supply you with the paint type used, or the number of the nearest dealer, who repairs them, and would know what kind of clear finish would work on polished metal.
Another good source of information would be an Air Stream forum, such as http://http://www.airforums.com/foru...archid=1090896

No, plating, at least the kind that you will find on the commercial market, can not be done over body filler. The plating done over non conductive materials requires vapor deposition of a conductive material, with subsequent deposition of the bright plate. Think automobile grills.

A product that I have used on polished aluminum is called Race Glaze.
http://http://raceglaze.net/
It was the only product that I found that did not leave a noticable haze on the aluminum. I would assume that it would act the same on polished steel.
It is not a paint, but only a polish/sealant, so if the metal was left in the weather, it would probably start degrading. Good luck, CZ
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2012, 09:57 AM
tarzan tarzan is offline
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You would probably have adhesion problems trying to clear coat or paint a polished tank. Paint needs something to bite. That is why you have to sand with 400-600 grit before painting.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:31 AM
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jwhughes3 jwhughes3 is offline
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Sharkhide

If you do decide to polish metal (steel or aluminum) there is a product that sticks...called Sharkhide. Its used to protect boats in saltwater from the aluminum getting oxidized. Brush or spray it on.

Its available on Amazon cz I bought mine there. I bought it to polish the wheels and engine bits then cover them, but havent gotten to the polishing part yet

John

Here is a company link for info but they dont sell direct. Cool pics though.

http://www.sharkhide.com/sharkhide_metal_protectant.htm
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John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
'81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

"Not all treasure is silver and gold"

Last edited by jwhughes3; 06-17-2012 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Added link
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  #13  
Old 06-17-2012, 11:11 AM
JosephM JosephM is offline
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Sharkhide

I saw a demo of this stuff - it looks awesome. But, it still makes me nervous to not have a more permanent coating. My understanding is that clear powdercoat will hold and protect - better than paint.
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  #14  
Old 06-17-2012, 11:44 AM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JosephM View Post
..My understanding is that clear powdercoat will hold and protect - better than paint.
Powdercoat is wonderful stuff, but has it's limitations just like any coating. Any clear coating will suffer from UV breakdown sooner or later, including powdercoat. One disadvantage to powdercoat is because it does bond so well to properly-prepped metal surfaces, when you do get a break in the finish and corrosion gets under it it's a difficult job to strip and reapply. You can't 'touch-up' powder like you can paint.

Applying a thick coat of powder will help with or even eliminate chipping, but thick clear will 'fog' the underlying finish.

The hotrodders that are using bare steel finishes are using a regular wipedown (weekly or less) with WD40 as their 'wax'...
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2012, 01:10 PM
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jwhughes3 jwhughes3 is offline
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Sharkhide

One of the things that sold me on sharkhide was that you dont have to strip prior coats to refinish. Brush a new coat on and solvents "melt" previous finish and allow the two to bond. Makes it easier to reapply annually.

John
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John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
'81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

"Not all treasure is silver and gold"
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