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Old 09-04-2018, 09:17 PM
BillyRok BillyRok is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Shortsville, NY.
Posts: 379
Scrambling to get the LG ready for VYR in NC

I'm trying to get my 1980 Midnight ready for the Vintage Yamaha Rally in NC at the end of the month. This is the bike I bought 4 years ago in Idaho and then flew out there and rode it home (here is the thread) http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ighlight=idaho It was quite an adventure but not without its problems along the route (here)http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ighlight=idaho

I did a little work on it after I got it home but then it got parked and has not moved since. Figuring the rally in NC at the end of the month would be good motivation to get it running again, I have started work on it. Here is an update along with a few issues that I hope you all will be able to help resolve.

Work done so far (in no particular order): shimmed the valves, new tires, new battery, greased drive shaft and final drive, greased swing arm bearings and rear wheel bearing, oil and filter change, new oil in middle and final drives. Plan to drain and clean forks then new oil and seals. Waiting on new s/s brake lines from Chacal so I can clean calipers and master cylinders and install new pads. Need to clean all electrical connections and maybe replace old style fuses. Will repack steering head bearings and may replace front wheel bearings.

Two current projects are coils and carbs, and this is where I could use some help. I tore the carbs down completely to run each carb body through my small ultrasonic cleaner and be able to replace the butterfly shaft seals. I was able to remove 7 of 8 butterfly screws without issue but one gave me problems. Ended up having to drill it out but didn't get the drill bit centered perfectly and damaged the threads in one hole on the butterfly shaft. The screw will still go into the hole and sorta grab the threads...I could locktite it in and hope it holds but would hate to have it come loose and get sucked into the motor. Carb #1 has also been fun. On the way back from Idaho in 2014, I did some work on the carbs and discovered that #1 had a broken float post and the pilot jet was so buggered up I couldn't remove it to clean it. Then while tearing the carbs down, both of the small screws on #1 that hold the choke bracket on twisted off. I am currently looking for a #1 late model carb body and #2 carb butterfly shaft, there's a post in the "Wanted to Buy" section. Can the broken screws be removed with a drill press, penetrating oil, and an EZ out? If so, I can fix the broken post the way others have done in the past. Also found that the vacuum hose from the octy to the #2 carb boot was slit up past the brass nipple on the boot, wasn't visible in Idaho as I never removed the carb boots. I'm guessing this certainly caused issues with the fuel supply.

I'm also running into a snag with my new Dyna coils. I've used the 1" angle brackets before to mount these same coils on an '81H with no issue. However, some of the later bikes (LG, SG, LH, SH, and XJ) have a small bracket that mounts where the front of the stock coils also mount. This bracket is the fastening point for a cover that is between the tank and frame neck. If you go to Partzilla and look up any of the models I listed and search under the "frame" heading, you will see this bracket and cover I'm talking about. I'm really scratching my head as to how to make these brackets all work together as my imagination and fabrication skills leave much to be desired! Anybody got a picture of how they mounted new coils on one of these later model bikes?
My other question is this: since the mounting holes in the "square shaft" of the Dyna coils are 90 degrees off from the stock coils, has anyone ever drilled new holes through the square shaft perpendicular to the factory holes? It would make mounting these new coils a snap but I don't want to destroy a new $135 set of coils!

Thanks for reading and for any suggestions you may have, only have a little over 2 weeks to sort all this out.
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Billy

1982 XJ1100, Ceramic Coated Headers, Raptor ACCT, Barnett Clutch Springs, Dremmel Fix, TC's Fuse Block, De-Linked S/S Brake Lines, 850 Final Drive, Yahman's YICS Eliminator, Pods, stock jets
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2018, 10:43 PM
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DiverRay DiverRay is offline
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Location: Aptos, CA (Santa Cruz County) 831-234-8721 C
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The screws in the shafts should be "split" on the end so they can be peened over after the installation. This will keep the one screw from going into the engine, as it cannot fit back through the shaft.
For the coils, just use some flat stock and bend it yourself to fit. 20gauge steel will be more than strong for what you are doing, and easy to work with. You should be able to get a few scraps from a local HVAC or sheet metal shop.
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2018, 07:41 PM
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Bonz Bonz is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Palmer Lake, Colorado
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Hey Billy, are the fork seals leaking? My 80SG had the original seals when I sold it last fall, no issues even after a few drain/fills during ownership. If they arenít leaking, I would leave them well enough alone. Or see if this does the trick before doing new seals... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S5L2K2PXGtA

Are the butterfly shaft seals loose, or is this just preventative on your part? This does not harm butterfly seals, used it countless times... https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Prod.../dp/B00DSMEL2A

Pine sol is a great cleaner as well, dilute it and use it harmlessly with your ultrasonic cleaner... https://www.google.com/search?q=pine...fRkJP4i6sQsNM:
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