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  #91  
Old 08-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey there,

Glad you figured out the Geezer R/R is bad. IIRC he offers a LIFETIME warranty on his units so it should be just a matter of sending him the bad one and he should then send you a replacement, may have to just pay shipping?

With the headlight still not working, does sound like either the relay is bad,or the diode in the harness that sends the latching power/signal to the relay is bad.

My relay stopped working sometime after installing my aftermarket racing alternator, it is a 1 wire design with built in R/R, so I made a tap wire from one of the legs/phases in the ALT for the headlight relay and tach wire. I opened up the harness, found the diode, replaced it, but it still didn't want to work.

So I removed the phase tap wire from the ALT. I then wired in a handlebar switch to activate the headlight relay manually. I can throw the relay and then release the switch and the relay keeps latched keeping the headlight ON until I turn the bike/key off.

So...you can test the headlight relay with a 12 volt (+) tap wire that you can do a temporary 'touch' to the white wire contact of the relay with just the key on and see if the headlight comes on. If so, then the relay still works, and most likely the diode in the harness that converts the ~7V AC into pulsed DC to throw the relay is bad. You can try to replace the diode, or you can install a separate switch instead, your choice.

Good luck with the troubleshooting.

T.C.
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  #92  
Old 08-11-2018, 11:35 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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If you want, you can ditch the relay altogether and jump the red/yel and the blu/blk in the harness plug. The headlight should go on with the key in the 'on' position.
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  #93  
Old 08-12-2018, 09:22 AM
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3Phase 3Phase is offline
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T.C., the '78 and '79 headlight relays use the Yellow wire from the common center-tap for the stator coils, there are no diodes in any of the alternator wires or the relay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerphil View Post
If you want, you can ditch the relay altogether and jump the red/yel and the blu/blk in the harness plug. The headlight should go on with the key in the 'on' position.
That's the best suggestion right there, Phil.

FWIW, if you bypass the relay and use a kicker to start the engine then the current used by the headlight and the relay won't matter.
If the engine doesn't start with one or two kicks, something is wrong and grinding away with the starter motor won't fix it.
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