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  #46  
Old 06-19-2011, 01:24 PM
lancelot455 lancelot455 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post
Thinking about taking my disassembled carbs and all of the pieces to the yammy dealer and having them finish the job for me. Your thoughts?
Wish you luck with that.........let us know how that all worked out!
When i took mine to the dealer last year they charged me $400 to go thru the carbs.$100 a piece.
If you have rust in your tank you better make sure you have in line filters or you will be re cleaning the carbs again very soon
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  #47  
Old 06-19-2011, 01:45 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Originally Posted by lancelot455 View Post
When i took mine to the dealer last year they charged me $400 to go thru the carbs.$100 a piece.
If you have rust in your tank you better make sure you have in line filters or you will be re cleaning the carbs again very soon
If i take the tank and have it dipped at a rad shop that should be pretty cheap right? what would I have to do after that doesn't it need some kind of coating put on the inside?
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  #48  
Old 06-19-2011, 02:13 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Originally Posted by XSTrey11 View Post
If i take the tank and have it dipped at a rad shop that should be pretty cheap right? what would I have to do after that doesn't it need some kind of coating put on the inside?
Dipping at a rad shop will remove the paint. When I brought my tank in and had it dipped earlier this year it cost me about $75 for thw dip and the liner they put in. Then you have to paint.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

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  #49  
Old 06-19-2011, 02:35 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Originally Posted by natemoen View Post
Dipping at a rad shop will remove the paint. When I brought my tank in and had it dipped earlier this year it cost me about $75 for thw dip and the liner they put in. Then you have to paint.
Perfect the paint is **** anyways haha.
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  #50  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:51 PM
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petejw petejw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGXSER View Post
The bread tie method that Pete linked to is a good STARTING point for synching. This sets all the butterfly plates to be the same opening. Now, if all of your cylinders have the exact same compression, and the valves are all exactly the same cleanliness wise, and your carbs are all exactly the same settings, and your exhaust is all exactly the same pressure.....and reality is that none of those are exactly the same......then the bread tie synch would be right on perfect.
thanx Don, i shouldve clarified that, it was more for him to understand
what screws to move and setting the butterflies while the carbs were off.
having a sync guage and setting while the engine is running is always the final
stage of a sync.
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new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa


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1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8d..._order&list=UL
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  #51  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:57 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Ok so I've found some interesting things in my carbs so far tonight. I took out the idle mixture screws and found that #1 had a rubber o-ring and no washer. #2 had an o-ring. #3 had a washer and no o-ring. #4 had two o-rings. Weird. Also i took out the needle seats and found that numbers 1 & 2 were filthy around the dome filter and the area where it sits while 3 & 4 were very clean.

Fun Fact: The leaky petcock was the one feeding the filthy #1 & #2
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  #52  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:03 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Would these work?

http://www.bikebandit.com/mikuni-pil...ck?mg=8567&t=1
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  #53  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:12 PM
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Yes, those are the correct jets for our carbs.
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  #54  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:19 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Check at your local shop, then you don't have to pay shipping. Probably cost roughly the same or less.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #55  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:22 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Originally Posted by natemoen View Post
Check at your local shop, then you don't have to pay shipping. Probably cost roughly the same or less.
I called the yammy dealer and they told me they have been discontinued but told me he could get me kits for 32 bucks a piece. I'm still trying to find a needle for one of my slide diaphragms but I'm not sure what size and all that jazz.
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  #56  
Old 06-20-2011, 01:23 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Originally Posted by DGXSER View Post
Yes, those are the correct jets for our carbs.
And the size should be 42.5 correct?
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  #57  
Old 06-20-2011, 07:57 PM
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The later model carbs should be 42.5 yes. I would just check on ebay or maybe MikesXS for your needle. Not sure that part itself is easy to find. But you could maybe get a cheap whole diaphram and slide with the needle. I did my carbs when I bought mine. Had a couple PITA's, float in carb 4 was not the right float and caught on the body(bought from MikesXS). They were very dirty(cleaned each jet with carb cleaner and soaked the bodies in Pine-Sol). O-rings on valve seat were ripped(bought from McMaster-Carr). One washer for main jet was steel/replaced by PO cuz he prolly lost it(bought a stainless one that fit better).
Once you get it all to come together and put them back on....and they run....it is a really good feeling. I would think about investing in a carb sync tool and a colortune. Makes life a lot easier when they go on, and only takes a couple hours(your first time) I bought a carb sync tool and am buying a colortune this week. About $120-$140 total for both, but you will definately get your use out of them. Pretty much costs about a trip to the shop, but you can do it whenever you want after that then
Sounds like you are making your way towards the light tho...way to stay with it. I had a hell of a time with my brakes. Keep showing that bike who's boss and you will love it come time to ride. I can't wait to get on mine every time I see it again. And there is still stuff to do, Like front fork rebuild Digging into it a little at a time and being comfortable and confident is important. Have fun....I'll keep checkin on progression

As far as cleaning your tank. you are better off using the electrolosis method. Just asked that question. Just need a battery charger and a wire of some sort, and some sort of Electrolyte (Arm & Hammer or TSP) Look it up, and you will find plenty of threads on it.
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1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

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  #58  
Old 06-20-2011, 08:09 PM
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http://www.bikebandit.com/mikuni-64-6mm-jet-needle

Don't think this is the same as your jet needles but you could get 4 new ones maybe for about $25 plus shipping. Can someone confirm on that? Looks like an early needle, not sure it will work in the late model carbies.
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1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

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  #59  
Old 06-20-2011, 09:24 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Originally Posted by Lbrown311 View Post
As far as cleaning your tank. you are better off using the electrolosis method. Just asked that question. Just need a battery charger and a wire of some sort, and some sort of Electrolyte (Arm & Hammer or TSP) Look it up, and you will find plenty of threads on it.
Why do you say I'm better off with the electrolysis method?
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  #60  
Old 06-20-2011, 11:04 PM
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Well the radiator shop I talked to today said it's not the best method for getting rust out. Especially if it is thick rust. He even mentioned doing the "shake a chain in the tank" method....which leads me to believe either A - he doesn't like dipping tanks or B - it's not a very viable method of removing rust. Either way you can buy a battery charger and some A&H or TSP for the price it would cost you to dip it. Which in my opinion is better, considering you get to keep the battery charger (unless you have one, in which case it would be even cheaper). You should let me know what you choose to do since I will be cleaning 2 tanks in the near future. Just bought a second one so I can "Refurbish" the original (or the new one if it is in better condition) and still ride. I will probably sell the one I don't use. Not sure if I will paint them both or not. Depends on cost.

If cost is not an issue and you wanna just eliminate rust, check out Metal Rescue. That stuff looks pretty awesome. 5 gallon bucket of it is $90 and you could prolly dip some other parts in it as well ie" fenders, brake calipers, handle bars etc. Anything metal that has rust. It removes it within 1-14hrs depending on the severity of the rust. Just buy and dip basically. There is also another product out there that is a 3 part fix. Cleaner, deruster, and sealer. Not sure the name off hand, or the price. If your tank isn't terribly rusty you prolly don't "need" to seal it. If it will be your primary tank and bike, it wouldn't be a bad idea considering the age. Metal will eventually decay over time. A sealer will prevent that. Just some of my thoughts as I've owned my bike
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1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
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1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

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