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  #31  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:44 PM
alaskey2 alaskey2 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 60940
Posts: 250
that 9 pin connector is for the fairing, follow it back to the original leads and the wiring will make a little more sense.
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2016, 08:54 PM
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JRealHEMC JRealHEMC is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Westland, MI.
Posts: 82
Question...

I'm thinking about removing a couple of things from my bike:

1. The passenger pegs... I'm thinking of removing the mounting plate that they are connected to, and mounting the front pegs directly to the frame with a spacer in between to make up for the space the bracket will leave. My question is, is the bolt going thru there one long bolt from left to right & also holding the engine? (Because I really rather not unmount the engine)

2. The front engine guards... I'm thinking of bolting front pegs there instead or maybe forward controls. Same worry, is that one long bolt going straight thru mounting the engine in the front??
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ALSO: I have a couple other threads here, so here's my progress so far with this...
- fully disassembled minus the block
- removed carbs for cleaning
- customized my seat
- re positioned the rear fender/cut of the old mounts
- added new taillight/signal/plate bracket to fender
- flipped bike & removed gears to perform the "dremmel fix"
- bought new gasket set for reassembly
- degreased to prepare for paint

Up next:
- reassembly
- paint
- mounting my new Shinko 712 tires
I should be back up & running this week!

(I'll be posting pictures of everything I've done soon, this is just so you guys know I'm still here. I appreciate everyone's input & advice. Not sure how this would have went if I'd never discovered xs11.com!)
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  #33  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:55 PM
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JRealHEMC JRealHEMC is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Westland, MI.
Posts: 82
Grrrrr...

Ok... So I've "finished" my bike (pix coming soon). I customized my own seat, modified my exhaust, installed new headlight & taillight with integrated turn signals, new levers & master cylinder, new brakes, new gaskets after I reassembled everything after successfully completing the dremmel fix (I have first gear for the first time). Painted everything. Took her for a spin, rode for a short while... Battery died! Pushed the heavy sucker down the block, gave it a jump to get it home, charged the battery over night, got on to ride again... Battery died while riding again! Went to AutoZone & bought a brand new battery, same size... Left with 12v, installed in the parking lot... Died on the freeway 5 miles later! I'm assuming it may be my stator! Smh. Back to the drawing board!!!
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  #34  
Old 04-16-2016, 07:23 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,621
Hey there,

It may be your stator, but more likely it's the Reg/RECT, they can fry and fail.

But first, remove the fuseblock mounting PLATE and inspect the 3 large white plugs behind there. That's where the ALT plugs into the harness and they can corrode, and then due to resistance, can actually MELT apart. Clean, repair as needed.

Then after you have FULLY charged your new battery...although you've already damaged it so that it won't be able to take as much of a charge as it could have IF you had taken it from the store and FIRST trickle charged it up to full capacity before using it...they are not fully charged when they are dry charged, and so even though you add the electrolyte, to get the most out of one, they need to be fully charged before putting into service. Spilt milk!

Get your voltmeter out, Start the bike, and then connect the meter to the battery, and then slowly rev the engine to 2500 and check the meter, should be 14.5 volts or close. IF still 12 or less, then it's not charging. Next access the Reg/Rect under the tank, then tap into the GREEN wire, and connect it to ground. This bypasses the Reg. and will send the full 12 volts to the Field Coil, start the bike and retest the volts at 2500. IF you now have 14.5 volts, then the Reg/Rect is bad and will need to be replaced.

If still only 12 volts, then further testing of the ALT as well as the field coil will be required. See the manual for how to test them for shorts.

T.C.
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