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  #1  
Old 05-05-2009, 06:21 PM
andrewraffaele andrewraffaele is offline
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Starter / Electrical issues...

ok gentlemen, I did something stupid and now I need your help...

the other day I cut some side covers out of sheet metal, I was negligent while placing them on the bike, the sheet metal contacted my starter relay. My bike went dead while I was riding... it fried the wire connecting the battery to the starter relay.

I fashioned a new wire and the battery looked fine, I bump started the bike and she rode cleanly. However, the bike would not start back up after I had let it idle for a bit. took out the starter, could turn it by hand and the starter brushes looked fine (I dont really know though). so my question is...

Did I fry my starter relay?
Do I need to rebuild the starter?
How hard are these bike to kick start, and where can I get the right kick lever?

note: I hear a clicking from the relay when I hit the starter button... but the starter itself will not turn... HELP!
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  #2  
Old 05-05-2009, 06:34 PM
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XJOK2PLAY XJOK2PLAY is offline
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Ya might check this...

First off, Welcome to the forum!!! Glad to have you here. And don't kick yourself too hard, experimentation and fabrication's what it's all about. We've all been there, done that.
So, with that said, I would gain access to a good working DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), place it in DC volt setting in a range exceeding 12 volts, and check voltage across the battery. It should read around 12.5 volts with the bike off. If good, While continuing to monitor battery voltage, try to start the bike and see where the voltage goes. If it drops too much or craters, you probably need a new battery, or at least a good charging, if it didn't short it out. If battery's good, it will drop some when cranking, but not crater out. If it fails the load test, try another battery. If it passes, may have fried more wiring than what you've seen, blown fuses, relays, etc.
Hope this will at least get you started in the right direction.
Regards,
Bob
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'82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

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Old 05-05-2009, 06:38 PM
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XJOK2PLAY XJOK2PLAY is offline
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One other thing...

It always helps us here to know what year and type of bike you have, (Standard,Special, Midnight Special, XJ1100, etc.), which you can add permanently to your log. Also ya might add on there where your from if you like. It helps us know the climate conditions your bike experiences.
Again, welcome... and hope this helps.
Bob
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'82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

'79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2009, 07:11 PM
randy randy is offline
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Just an educated/experienced opinion here. Don't waste $$ on a digital VOM. They don't respond quickly enough for SOME of the testing we do on these 30-yr old machines. Go for a good old analog meter with a needle dial. Cheap and effective.
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:16 PM
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CatatonicBug CatatonicBug is offline
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Welcome to the forum! I figured I'd throw my thoughts your way, and see if they might help. If you short across the starter solenoid (with the key in the "on" position), does the engine start? If not, you might check the fuses. One of them is in charge of the starter. These old glass fuses tend to cause problems, and even look ok when they are actually dead. Try just swapping them around and see if that changes anything. Of course, you want to make sure you swap them with the same amp fuses. If you have some new ones, that would even be better.
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:23 PM
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John John is offline
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If the solenoid clicks, but the starter doesn't turn there are just two options. A fully discharged battery that won't accept a charge, or a toasted starter solenoid. Check the blue/white wire for power. Next, ground the blue/white wire leading from the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, it will energize the starter.
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:17 PM
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XJOK2PLAY XJOK2PLAY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy View Post
Just an educated/experienced opinion here. Don't waste $$ on a digital VOM. They don't respond quickly enough for SOME of the testing we do on these 30-yr old machines. Go for a good old analog meter with a needle dial. Cheap and effective.
Quite right, Randy. I've ran into that a few times too. Good call. As these old bikes prove, sometimes "old tech" is better!!!
__________________
'82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

'79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."
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  #8  
Old 05-06-2009, 02:56 AM
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petejw petejw is offline
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might not hurt to look behind the fuseblock,
i think theres a fusable link, also wouldnt hurt to see
if any wires may have melted.
welcome to the site.
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new owner of
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1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
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