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  #136  
Old 05-13-2017, 07:36 AM
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I have soldered holes with an iron with the gas still in the tank, just tip the tank so the gas is away from the pin hole. I did it outside as a precautionary measure.
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  #137  
Old 05-13-2017, 03:38 PM
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Tank Leaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by FranksBMW View Post
Thanks Phil. Yes the key in the ignition does push down but I didn't know about the handlebars needing to be turned to the left so I had no idea what that function was for.

Here's a new question: Can you repair a pinhole in the gas tank with a dab of JB Weld on the outside? (I would sand down to bare metal first.) I know about lining the tank to fix leaks but am looking for an economy solution and there are just 2 or 3 pinholes.
Be advised that you should, in fact, strongly consider a tank liner. Nothing worse than going down the road with fuel all over your lap and legs. Be safe, not sorry.
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  #138  
Old 05-13-2017, 04:07 PM
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Wise advice, thank you. This project is in the early stages and some repairs are going to be somewhat makeshift until it all comes together.

IF it all comes together, then I'll throw some money at it.
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  #139  
Old 05-13-2017, 06:38 PM
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Hey Frank,

As has been stated, solder of some kind is the proper external seal. JB WELD will NOT hold....we have attempted to use it on the broken float posts, but it just dissolves!
So...solder external, and then sealer/liner internally is the best combo to prevent further leaks!

BTW, was your original ignition switch bad, or just missing the key, can't remember and didn't want to reread this whole thread! You can take the ignition switch apart, and put the lock portion with the key onto the switch portion so you can keep the same wire connections! JAT

T.C.
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  #140  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:36 PM
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Good info on the switching locks, thanks!
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  #141  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:43 PM
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Finally a picture. This is how she looks today.

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  #142  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:54 PM
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Finally a picture. This is how she looks today.

JB weld plugged the pin holes, at least for now. Bad news is that the drain tube from the gas cap area to out of the back of the tank has rusted through so when the tank is tilted back, gas leaks out. Dirty temporary solution for now was to plug the drain hose with a screw.

The weird thing is, now the starter doesn't respond to the start button. It did a few weeks ago. The key in the new ignition switch unit causes dashboard lights to activate but that's all. (The headlight does not work either, but maybe it doesn't until the motor is running?) I tried inserting the jumper wire to connect the ignition red and brown which is how I started the bike a few weeks ago. The dashboard lights light, but no starter reaction to the start button.

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  #143  
Old 05-16-2017, 03:58 PM
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Good news. I am using auto booster cables and a spare car battery I have sitting around. The clamps do not make great contact with the battery cables of the bike. Today i inserted a bolt held with 2 nuts into the motorbike battery cables so the booster cable clamps make better contact, and that was the issue. The bike now cranks, starts, and runs.

Bad news. The throttle cable seems to be too short and it holds the carbs open. The bike can't idle but runs at around 4K even with the throttle handle rotated closed. I'll have to investigate how the cable is connected.

Good news: I successfully swapped the old fuse holder with a new one. It sure would be convenient to have 3 hands while soldering!
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  #144  
Old 05-16-2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranksBMW View Post
Good news. I am using auto booster cables and a spare car battery I have sitting around. The clamps do not make great contact with the battery cables of the bike. Today i inserted a bolt held with 2 nuts into the motorbike battery cables so the booster cable clamps make better contact, and that was the issue. The bike now cranks, starts, and runs.

Bad news. The throttle cable seems to be too short and it holds the carbs open. The bike can't idle but runs at around 4K even with the throttle handle rotated closed. I'll have to investigate how the cable is connected.

Good news: I successfully swapped the old fuse holder with a new one. It sure would be convenient to have 3 hands while soldering!
Hi Frank,
Just in time for the warm weather Check the routing of the throttle cable. A new one is not expensive. Check the adjusting screw for the throttle pull is adjusted correctly.
Phil
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  #145  
Old 05-16-2017, 04:44 PM
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Hi Phil,

There is still quite a way to go. Bike has no ownership/title, for one thing. New tires for another. Then a safety check.
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  #146  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranksBMW View Post
Good news. I am using auto booster cables and a spare car battery I have sitting around. The clamps do not make great contact with the battery cables of the bike. Today i inserted a bolt held with 2 nuts into the motorbike battery cables so the booster cable clamps make better contact, and that was the issue. The bike now cranks, starts, and runs.

Bad news. The throttle cable seems to be too short and it holds the carbs open. The bike can't idle but runs at around 4K even with the throttle handle rotated closed. I'll have to investigate how the cable is connected.

Good news: I successfully swapped the old fuse holder with a new one. It sure would be convenient to have 3 hands while soldering!
You are definately making progress.
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  #147  
Old 05-18-2017, 09:39 PM
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Yes. Happy with the progress. I have another bike to ride and this XS11 is just a side project, so it's nothing I have to rush to finish before I can ride.

Progress today: The throttle cable's too-short length has been resolved. The receptacle for the carb end of the throttle cable is on a short metal piece that is supposed to pivot. The piece was bent and could not pivot to the position to reach the end of the throttle cable properly. Straightened it and da-dah!

This was my first time installing the carb bank with the airbox in place. Fiddly. The tank's fuel and vacuum lines are also fiddly to do due to the way they're tucked underneath. On my airhead this is easy to do, being easily accessible.

Excited to try to start the bike again with the throttle working properly, but even with starter spray, there was no ignition. Hmmm. Love this journey!
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  #148  
Old 05-19-2017, 02:56 PM
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Good news. Motor was flooded. Removed plugs and wiped dry. Ignition happens.

Switched to another tank with sound drain tube. Tried silver solder on a few pinholes and covered up that poor job with JB Weld. Waiting 24 hours before testing.

But the best news was the throttle cable figured out yesterday.
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  #149  
Old 05-19-2017, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranksBMW View Post
Good news. Motor was flooded. Removed plugs and wiped dry. Ignition happens.

Switched to another tank with sound drain tube. Tried silver solder on a few pinholes and covered up that poor job with JB Weld. Waiting 24 hours before testing.

But the best news was the throttle cable figured out yesterday.
Good move with switching the tank.
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Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
One with Jardine 4-1 pipes. 8500 feet elevation.
03 Honda ST1300 ABS
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  #150  
Old 05-21-2017, 01:17 PM
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Tested the tank and the repair held. One petcock was leaking so I took it apart, cleaned and greased it. Now it holds.

The headlight bucket is buttoned up. The turn signals all work.

Question: Does the headlight only come on once the motor is running? Simply turning on the ignition key lights the brake light, allows the signals to function, and some dash lights come on, but the headlight does not. (The headlight does work - I tested it with direct leads from a battery.)
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