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Old 04-14-2010, 08:42 PM
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Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part1

Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part 1

by T.C."TopCat" Gresham , posted 04-14-10

Hey Folks,

Just did this, so wanted to post it as a pictorial guide for the rest of the site.
Please refer to your manuals for differences between this Special and a Standard.

First, put the bike on the centerstand, and then I suggest using a floor jack under the crossbar of the CS to raise the rear higher so you can put a few 2x4's or such to get the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Also suggest having someone ELSE hold/stabilize the bike during this jacking and blocking process! This can facilitate the rear tire/wheel removal without having to remove or hinge the rear fender!





My old tire is a Dunlop K491 Elite II MU90/140/90-16 RWL(Raised White Letters). Website specs say it's 5.57" wide, my calipers showed 5.66"! But as you can see, I had a RUBBING problem! Note the lack of swingarm clearance!




The Elite 3 MU90-16 BW(Black Wall) says it's also supposed to be 5.57" wide. The first photo shows it a bit narrower, but it's UNMounted!


Next, you'll note the Valve Stem alignment DOT, along with the rotation arrow.


The Born On Date shows the 03 week of the year 2010!


A few notes on wear. This tire's Born On Date was the 29th week of 2003, about 7 years old, had roughly 10K miles, and still some decent tread depth.
But you'll note(Tod/Trbig) that there aren't any "pussy" strips on the edges!
I don't daily ride this thing, hence it's age! But old rubber gets hard and slippery, so time to change!




Next, it's a good idea and time to also change the Final Drive gear oil, along with maintanence for the drive shaft splines, so draining the FD is a good start.


Next, remove the cotter pin, and then loosen/remove the axle castle nut/washer!


Next, loosen the axle pinch bolt on the right side. You'll note that the Exhaust Muffler will be removed to allow the axle room to slide out. There's supposed to be a fancy cable tool to allow you to suspend the swingarm up enough to clear the OEM pipes, but most folks probably won't have it!



You'll be loosening the lower shock nut to remove the FD unit, so you could loosen/remove the right lower shock nut/bolt and allow the swingarm to DROP down to provide clearance of the axle below the muffler, your choice!

Continued in part 2.....
  #2  
Old 04-14-2010, 09:14 PM
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Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part 2

Next, you can use a phillips screwdriver into the holes to grasp the axle and remove it, also suggest a gentle hammer tap on the other end to assist!


Next, you'll need to lift up the brake caliper assembly to provide clearance for the wheel/tire to be shifted to the right. I used a spare bolt to hold it, you may want to use a bungy cord, etc.! The "Special" spacer has already been removed. Take PHOTOS to help remember their reassembly order/position!


Then push/pull the rear wheel towards the right so that it can slide off of the FD splines.


Then wiggle the wheel/tire at an angle and downwards in between the FD and the right swingarm keeping the brake assembly up and out of the way!

Then it will be able to be removed out from under the fender. Deflating the tire can also help getting it past the FD/Swingarm!


With the wheel out, you can see the Splines that need to be cleaned and regreased, don't forget that large thick rubber washer. You will want to remove and install the NEW tire before doing the greasing!

It's also a good time to inspect the bearings. The inner sleeve of the large left side roller pin bearing can slide outwards, but there shouldn't be any lateral slop, or grinding/notched feeling when you spin/rotate it. Same for the right side bearing. See other tech tip for bearing R&R!




To remove the FD, loosen and remove the 4 lock nuts that hold it to the Swingarm, as well as the lower shock nut!


You can see the Drive shaft splines in the swingarm, as well as in the end of the FD that both need cleaning/regreasing. Don't loose that Spring!




Please see the FRONT TIRE PICTORIAL for more detailed info on removing and replacing the old and new tires! A combination of tools may be required! Forgive the Non-plastic shielded tire irons!


Next is the setup using a pair of jackstands, and the axle to balance the tire. The hard part was getting the weights from the auto store! Spinning the tire until is stops, if it stops at same location...it's heavy there, put some weight opposite the bottom, and repeat until you get variable stopping points!
Other techniques are also available, your choice!


Here's the new Elite 3 mounted/inflated, same width setting on calipers, note space!! YMMV!


Here's the tire/rim mounted back on the bike! Just repeat removal process to install! May require a little wiggling of the brake assembly to fit pads back down around the rotor, don't forget the torsion stop pin fitting on the front of the caliper bracket. Also, don't forget the special SPACER next to the wheel before the brake bracket assembly. I applied grease to the dust seal as well as the axle. Reinsert the Axle till it hits the shoulder on the right side against the brake bracket. Then tighten the castle axle nut to the require torque, replace cotter pin. Then tighten the axle pinch bolt on the right side to torque. Replace MUFFLER!


And you can sorta see from this view from the bottom the extra clearance of the Elite 3 and the swingarm. That's an extra bar I welded to the swingarm for more bracing in an attempt to reduce the swingarm flex! YMMV


Hope this will be helpful to the masses!
__________________
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
 

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