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  #16  
Old 04-15-2019, 08:59 PM
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I'm fascinated by the penetrating oil test results.

Thanks for posting it Brian!
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  #17  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kboehringer View Post
This is something (I believe) everyone should do. Unlike others, I personally prefer to use the paper gaskets (just a personal preference).

KURT
I like them too Kurt. Not that I have any good reason to , just nostalgic for original ways and the 70's

I have the header crush ring gaskets and valve cover gasket (parts-n-more) but no pan gasket yet.

Thanks for the tip on the engine set.
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPittma100 View Post
Brian, some or maybe all of the aftermarket exhausts were configured for the mufflers to slip on/off. Thus, four separate header pipes. After a number of years assembled, it normally requires oxy/acetylene heat to separate them.
I believe it is a patch job on original exhaust components. Time will tell what is going once I can buy a hex key socket set and apply to those exhaust stud nuts..
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'72 RT2 MX360 (the "Yak" gone but not forgotten, she was my first, after all)
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:54 PM
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Hit the nuts with homebrew before trying to loosen them! a bit of ATF/Acetone will help loosen up the years of rust.
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  #20  
Old 04-17-2019, 07:22 PM
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50 - 50

50% success.

Weeks of applying Liquid Wrench seemed to work on pipes 3 and 4, they gave up the nuts fairly easy, not much effort at all.

Similar effort on pipes 1 & 2 took the studs out with the nuts. At least they came out without breaking studs off

On re-assembly, do I just leave the nuts on the studs and put them back in like a regular bolt?

Brian
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'72 RT2 MX360 (the "Yak" gone but not forgotten, she was my first, after all)
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  #21  
Old 04-17-2019, 08:42 PM
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Brian, I highly recommend nuts be removed and studs screwed in seperately as those holes are bottom holes. Screw studs in, and to snug them down double nut the stud, tighten stud, remove double nut.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2019, 08:00 PM
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4 Connectors!

I have 4 connectors, all seem identical, other than the bolt head on the outer two are slightly smaller. Try the link for a few pics

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9a8eyioRb83uSNb4A

The parts diagram for the exhaust system show only two part #12 exhaust gaskets. It does not show one in the cross connector, but the pipe dimensions measure the same and appears to have one, so I figure 5th one.

One pipe is missing the gasket, explains the soot at the joint. The others seem lodged in there pretty good. Any tricks to remove?

So it seems I need 5 gaskets. Found some on Parts n More for 1/3 the cheapeest price anywhere else. Bonus for me is no shipping - they distribute from my home town. I have made a few purchases there and been satisfied.
They seem to have more parts for our bikes than what shows up if you sort by XS1100. I searched by part number.

Also, no idea why there is a pipe clamp on the back edge of ther decorative chome shield. It is welded onto the pipe.

Part'n'More https://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yam...muffler+gasket
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'78 XS1100E (the newest bike I've ever owned)
'74 CB350F1 (under restoration)
'72 RT2 MX360 (the "Yak" gone but not forgotten, she was my first, after all)

Last edited by dbbrian; 04-22-2019 at 08:04 PM.
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  #23  
Old Yesterday, 07:19 PM
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Need an oil pan gasket

Think I'll just order the one (missing) gasket and leave the others in place.

Anyone have an oil pan gasket? I don't want to buy the whole set of engine gaskets to get just the one I need, and would like to use one, not just the goop.


Brian
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'72 RT2 MX360 (the "Yak" gone but not forgotten, she was my first, after all)
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  #24  
Old Yesterday, 07:58 PM
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Ebay sells them separate you know, I don't know about shipping fees to Canada though. They are pretty simple to make with an X-acto and a hole punch with some thick gasket paper from auto parts. Take the splash guards off the inside of the oil pan so it can lay flat on the paper.
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