1980 G wont idle.

[natemoen]

Thick rust, no dipping won't do all that well with that, but average tank rust will be taken care of fine by dipping AND it will prepare the metal much better for lining if you go that rout. If you do the electolisys cleaning you are going to have to put a good amount of time and effort into cleaning the inside of the tank and making sure there is no left over residue inside before you even THINK about putting a lining inside there!

[XSTrey11]

I'm just going to go for the dip. The rad shop in Marion will do it and put a liner in there for 75 bucks and I won't even have to mess with it. I have enough on my plate with these carbs and petcocks. After I get the monster running again then I have rear brakes to get working (should just be fluids), fix my charging issue, and get an acceptable seat. Lots on my plate hopefully I'll have enough money and time to get it done in time to ride it a bit this summer.

[XSTrey11]

I'd also like to rewire everything but that's a whole new animal and I seriously doubt I can do that without any help. By the way check this out. I'd LOVE to send this guy my carbs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...Q5fAccessories

[Lbrown311]

Yeah wish I just had $350 just lying around to have my carbs look like that. Thought about it at first. Then realized there is probably plenty of other stuff wrong with the bike I will need to pay for Turned out it was a good decision.

[XSTrey11]

I'm looking at my float needle seats and my floats and I noticed they're not the same as what I'm seeing in the OEM manual that I got from Bug. Mine look like this.

The OEM manual shows them looking like this (threaded seats and round floats)

Why would mine be different and should I worry about it? Also what do I need to be looking for in carbs 1&2 (the ones that were leaking fuel into the crank case) in order to prevent further leakage?

[natemoen]

Those are the right ones you have. The book you are looking at mainly.talked about the earlier models which had brass floats and threaded seats. In '80 they changes to the parts that yours has in your picture.

[Lbrown311]

Not sure about yours but in the back of my manual there is a supplement for the SG which has the appropriate way of doing things. Not like those "other" models that people buy for some reason Make sure your o-rings are in good shape. You probably wanna take them off and clean under them as a lot of crap gets caught under the o-ring. BE VERY CAREFUL IN DOING SO. They are pretty fragile if they are original. I broke 2/3 of mine. Bought some replacements at the hardware store, but wasn't sure if they were fuel resistant. I have some new viton ones that I bought from McMaster-Carr. If you need any let me know and I will send you some. It came in a huge packet per minimum order. Anyways, your floats are correct. Setting the float height can get quite tricky, if the PO did a number on them. I like to check the starting level and if they are different from right to left. I pulled the low one and pushed the high one to get them the same. Then you can set the actual height. The tab is easily "goofed up" for a first timer, so it is best to start with a level right and left side of the float. After that it is super easy. Best to get a micrometer for setting the height and be very consistent. There is a tech tip I believe or at least a few threads on it. Looks like you are moving right along Hope you're having fun. I did!

[cywelchjr]

Originally Posted by XSTrey11

I'm looking at my float needle seats and my floats and I noticed they're not the same as what I'm seeing in the OEM manual that I got from Bug. Mine look like this.

The OEM manual shows them looking like this (threaded seats and round floats)

Why would mine be different and should I worry about it? Also what do I need to be looking for in carbs 1&2 (the ones that were leaking fuel into the crank case) in order to prevent further leakage?

I can see from the picture that the o-ring on the seat in flattened out. Your going to need to replace that o-ring at least (should replace them on all the carbs). You should probably replace the little tiny ones under the idle mixture screw springs as well, as if they are bad it can make it very hard if not almost impossible to get the idle mixture adjusted properly.

[XSTrey11]

Does anyone know how tog o about getting myself a new needle? I bent one by accident and would feel more comfortable replacing it rather than just trying to bend it out and put it back in.

[XSTrey11]

Went looking for the o-rings and washers i need for my idle screws and had no luck whatsoever... Where can I find those tiny sons-of-guns?

[bikerphil]

Originally Posted by XSTrey11

Went looking for the o-rings and washers i need for my idle screws and had no luck whatsoever... Where can I find those tiny sons-of-guns?

One source, P/N 48-5012 scroll down to the bottom...

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-37.html#products

As for the carb needle, repair it if possible, it may be hard to find the same exact type. It should have a number on it. Posting the # would be helpful.

[XSTrey11]

Originally Posted by bikerphil

One source, P/N 48-5012 scroll down to the bottom...

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-37.html#products

As for the carb needle, repair it if possible, it may be hard to find the same exact type. It should have a number on it. Posting the # would be helpful.

The needle seems to say 51Z7?

[XSTrey11]

Correction 5IZ7

[bikerphil]

After some searching I can't find anything. Maybe someone has an extra one for you in their parts box.

[cywelchjr]

IIRC new needles can be had for the specials, but not for the standards (this is talking the late carbs of course). And the needles between standard and special are not the same.