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Old 07-21-2013, 09:51 AM
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Surge 58 Surge 58 is offline
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Standard Tank wanted!

Hello,

Anybody have a decent standard tank that they want to sell? I just picked up a $25 standard tank that I was starting to work on and the darn top portion of the fill area came loose from the tank while I was working on it.
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1980 XS1100SG
Raptor 660 ACCT, Kerker turnout exhaust, progressive fork springs, Showa shocks and Tkat forkbrace.

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1982 XJ650 SOLD!
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:18 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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What do you mean "came loose"? Pics help.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
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LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:00 PM
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The part that is attached to the tank where the gas goes in came loose from the tank. It happened when I was trying to get out a broken screw and was pushing down when it let loose.
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Stephen-Catskills

1980 XS1100SG
Raptor 660 ACCT, Kerker turnout exhaust, progressive fork springs, Showa shocks and Tkat forkbrace.

Previous ride.
1982 XJ650 SOLD!
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:31 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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If everything is still intact but the fill ring came loose just solder it back into place.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:37 PM
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Hi Nathan,

So, if I solder it woud I use the same kind of solder used on copper pipes? If not what kind. The area around the tank seems pretty solid as well as the ring so a little bit of cleaning it up and sanding some would smooth it all out and seem very fixable. I tried saving this tank from this guy who would have let it sit in his old garage and rust some more. The tank itself has a couple little dents that I can tap out. The other challenge is trying to clean up the rust o the inside. I have already taken everything off of the tank including the taps which are stuck. I will probably have to soak them and then get rebuid kits for them. Anyway thank you for your advise and I do have a picture of the tank but have not yet figured out on how to post it.


Thanks.
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Stephen-Catskills

1980 XS1100SG
Raptor 660 ACCT, Kerker turnout exhaust, progressive fork springs, Showa shocks and Tkat forkbrace.

Previous ride.
1982 XJ650 SOLD!
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:13 PM
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Pictures need to be uploaded to a site like photobucket and then you post the provided IMG link in the text of your reply.

Use a non lead, flux based solder. Do not use an acid based solder.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:28 PM
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Surge 58 Surge 58 is offline
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Thanks Nate,

I signed up on Photobucket and will have figure out how to use it. I will try sending a test photo next time before I send it here.
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Stephen-Catskills

1980 XS1100SG
Raptor 660 ACCT, Kerker turnout exhaust, progressive fork springs, Showa shocks and Tkat forkbrace.

Previous ride.
1982 XJ650 SOLD!
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:57 PM
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Copy the IMG link of your photo that you uploaded to photobucket and paste it here in your post.
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:58 PM
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fredintoon fredintoon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge 58 View Post
Hello,

Anybody have a decent standard tank that they want to sell? I just picked up a $25 standard tank that I was starting to work on and the darn top portion of the fill area came loose from the tank while I was working on it.
Hi Steve,
also check the drain tube that starts in the tank's filler cap pocket and exits at the tank's left rear. If it's blocked, no biggie. If it's rusted through inside the tank fuel can leak out of the drain tube and onto the floor.
Prepare yourself that your $25 bargain may not be as sweet as you hoped.
OTOH, in the past a Standard tank's filler cap and fuel taps alone have sold for more than $25.
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  #11  
Old 07-22-2013, 02:46 AM
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ViperRon ViperRon is offline
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Now this may be obvious to you but make sure to clean the fuel out of the tank. Heat tends to build up fumes and gas vapor can explode very easily. If the tank is very rusty gas residue can get trapped in rust pockets and heat will release it. So if the tank looks scally inside or has a lot of residue in the bottom clean it out first. It does not take a large explosion to bend that tank out of shape. Its just one more precaution to take.
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  #12  
Old 07-22-2013, 05:33 AM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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As to Fred's comments: yeah check the tube. If it is busted or has holes in it, solder the top hole and the bottom hole shut while your at it. Then if you ever get any water or gas in the recess in the top you need to soak it up and clean it out on your own.

As to ViperRon'a comments: absolutly clean it out first, you may find that there is no point in soldering the ring back in......
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KD9ARL

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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #13  
Old 07-22-2013, 10:33 AM
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Surge 58 Surge 58 is offline
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Howdy,

OK, I think that I might be able to post a picture. The inside is rusted so I will try cleaning up a bit before I spend anymore time or money on it. It does however seem pretty solid underneath.

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Stephen-Catskills

1980 XS1100SG
Raptor 660 ACCT, Kerker turnout exhaust, progressive fork springs, Showa shocks and Tkat forkbrace.

Previous ride.
1982 XJ650 SOLD!
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  #14  
Old 07-22-2013, 11:10 AM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Dang! I thought you were just talking about the fill ring in the middle, not the whole recessed cap area!

Interesting!
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Nathan
KD9ARL

μολὼν λαβέ

1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #15  
Old 07-22-2013, 11:23 AM
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fredintoon fredintoon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge 58 View Post
Howdy, OK, I think that I might be able to post a picture. The inside is rusted so I will try cleaning up a bit before I spend anymore time or money on it. It does however seem pretty solid underneath.
Hi Steve,
ooh, that looks nasty but it does give you the opportunity to rip the cap recess & drain tube right out of there, weld in a sheetmetal patch and fit your choice of one of these:-
http://www.bikebandit.com/gas-caps-universal/n1196
in it's place.
But first, use the search feature to find how to de-rust that tank with a battery charger and a box of WASHING soda. Not baking soda, that's a different stuff and won't work
Best you don't throw money and effort into a cap fix until after you have checked that the de-rusted tank is sound enough to work with.
The first clue is if the tank acts like a watering can when you pour the washing soda electrolyte in.
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Last edited by fredintoon; 07-22-2013 at 11:26 AM.
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