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#16
08-28-2016, 10:27 AM
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↓ ↓ ↓ 79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (160K miles) 79SF - every day rider, solo seat mod, Brembo 16MM M/C, Accel 3Ω's, Supertrapp (120K miles) "If it ain't broke, modify it" 30 year XS11 owner  ☮ 
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#17
08-28-2016, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Phil lined up the link but here you go anyway: Quote:
3 BEARING, CYLINDER.#13 93313-62010-00 $43.48 1 PART OBSOLETE 4 BEARING 93306-30417-00 $32.18 $26.33 1 alternate bearing: BEARING 93306-30437-00 $34.49 $26.33 1 5 OIL SEAL 93102-25360-00 $7.66 $5.18 1 6 OIL SEAL, SO-TYPE 93104-27026-00 $11.03 $7.96 1 7 COLLAR 90387-20741-00 $5.48 1 part obsolete 8 O-RING 93210-40745-00 $5.17 $3.87 1 9 O-RING 93210-58677-00 $5.83 $3.93 1 10 CLUTCH, HUB 2H7-25366-00-00 $90.94 1 PART OBSOLETE 16 SEAL, HUB DUST 1J7-25319-01-00 $12.09 $10.22 1 The total without the left-hand cylindrical bearing is $57.49. Partzilla | Yamaha Motorcycle Parts | 1980 XS1100SG REAR WHEEL Diagram  Happy hunting!
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#18
08-28-2016, 05:19 PM
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I've seen all that, but I think I might be able to get them faster through Applied Industrial Technologies. They bought and renamed Minnesota Bearing and have the drive side bearing...it's an NTN NA5904...and I'm sure they have everything else. Having alternative part numbers would be nice if anybody happens to have them
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XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#20
08-28-2016, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
 I used to have the interchange numbers and the dimensions but they disappeared in the last OS upgrade. I'll most likely find them after I look them up again.  The major seal and bearing houses aren't letting me look up shaft seals by dimensions today, they only want to tell me how they're made.The right-hand seal: Pivotworks Price: $3.49 each Description: Seal - 27 x 52 x 5 Part Number: WSY-068 OE Part Number(s): Yamaha: 93104-27026 Yamaha: 93104-27026-00 Included in Kits: PWRWS-Y27-000 PWRWS-Y44-000 For Models: 1973 - 1974 Yamaha TX 750 STRT; 1977 - 1977 Yamaha XS 360 STRT Status: In Stock Part Number: WSY-068  Shaft Oil Seal TC27x52x5 Rubber Covered Double Lip w/Garter Spring Shaft Oil Seals TC27x52x5 Same seal but with a double-lip: AVX Seals Our Price: $2.93 Inner Diameter: 27mm Outer Diameter: 52mm Width: 5mm Material: Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR) Unit of Measure: Millimeter Quantity in Stock:300 Availability: in stock Product Code: TC27X52X5  The left-hand seal: Pivotworks Wheel Seals Description: Seal - 24.10 x 38.18 x 5.85 Part Number: WSY-002 OE Part Number(s): YAMAHA: 93102-25360 Yamaha: 93102-25360-00 Included in Kits: PWFWC-Y01-500 PWFWK-Y06-021 For Models: 1996 - 1997 Yamaha YZ 125 BIKE,1996 - 1997 Yamaha YZ 250 BIKE, 1996 - 1997 Yamaha YZ 125 BIKE,1996 - 1997 Yamaha YZ 250 BIKE Status: In Stock Purchase Price: $2.49 each Part Number: WSY-002  The same seal with a double lip: AVX Seals Shaft Oil Seal TC24x38x5 Rubber Covered Double Lip w/Garter Spring ID 24mm OD 38mm 24x38x5 Shaft Oil Seals TC24x38x5 Our Price: $2.49 Inner Diameter: 24mm Outer Diameter: 38mm Width: 5mm Material: Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR) Unit of Measure: Millimeter Quantity in Stock:170 Availability: in stock Product Code: TC24X38X5  Anyway, you get the idea. Don't forget the two hub o-rings. 
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#21
08-28-2016, 08:04 PM
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Awesome. Thank you! How exactly do I remove the clutch hub to get at those?
__________________
XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#22
08-28-2016, 10:57 PM
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It's hard to tell from the picture but the left-hand bearing and seal are both seated inside the wheel spindle, not the hub #10.
The o-rings are fitted to grooves cut on the outside of the spindle. The hub is slipped over the spindle and the o-rings. Set the rim on a couple of blocks of wood to keep it up off the ground so you don't slam/bang/bend/lean on or tweak the rear brake disk while you work. Look at the picture (or print it), then take off the #21 bolts, remove the #20 dust cover and the #16 dust seal to get at and remove the #11 hub bolts. The hub comes off the spindle, you change the o-rings, you put it back together. It may not be that easy because the whole Magilla's probably been in place and pretty much undisturbed for over thirty years but that's it in a nutshell.
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#23
08-29-2016, 01:32 AM
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I actually got it out with the same brass drift I used on the bearings. Few light taps on the ends of the bolts after breaking em free so they'd at least spin. Now it's all taken apart and mostly cleaned. Already put all the other stuff through the ultrasonic. Now I just gotta talk to Applied Industrial Technologies in the morning. They have the NTN NA5904...that elusive left rear bearing and it looks as though they have the 6304 from NTN too, but I need more experienced eyes to go through this list...
https://www.applied.com/categories/b...AMetric&text=#
__________________
XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#24
08-29-2016, 03:14 AM
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Nice work.
Yeah, the NA5904 is a standard bearing number and the entire planet didn't stop using them just because Yamaha stopped ordering their special version. From what I remember, the normal '5904 has a lubrication groove around the middle with a hole cut through the outer bearing race to lube the rollers. Yamaha saved a few fractions of a yen each by getting them without the groove and the hole because it wasn't necessary. The bearing's in a low speed application and packed with grease so there's no oil bath like a car or truck rearend and no grease galley drilled with a remote nipple to refresh the grease; simple but not conducive to long life. Ultrasonic cleaners are totally bitchen', I got a cheap 10 liter heated cleaner to do carburetors and try to cut down on solvents. What kind of solution are you using to degrease the hub and other parts?
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#25
08-29-2016, 10:03 AM
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I just use Simple Green and water in the ultrasonic. Gets the job done real fast. Most stuff everything I've put in from this bike has taken two 8min cycles. Round one is usually mostly Simple Green and I use hot water and kick the heating feature on. Second round is usually room temp water and mostly water.
__________________
XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#26
08-29-2016, 01:52 PM
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Rats. I had a gallon of Simple Green but it must have run off to 'Vegas with that Zep purple stuff 'cause both of them are gone. Oh well, time to go shopping again.
It was late and I missed it but what was it you wanted to know about the bearing(s) at your link?
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#27
08-29-2016, 02:59 PM
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Be CAREFUL with the simple green!!
 READ THE LABEL! it's NOT NICE to aluminum. I use Pinesol water mix, as it does NOT harm the aluminum. There was an aircraft lost because the owner used simple green.
__________________
Ray Matteis KE6NHG R1200RT Totaled 11-15-2016 XS1100 E '78 (winter project) XS1100 SF
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#28
08-29-2016, 03:18 PM
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I've actually only used it after the carb stuff, but have a funny feeling I ****ed the carbs up because I used a low dose Purple Power solution on them in the ultrasonic
__________________
XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#29
08-29-2016, 03:20 PM
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Also, I just read that Simple Green IS safe for aluminum as long as you rinse the hell out of it immediately after
__________________
XS1100SG "Lucy Ferr" - Build project. Biltwell Tracker bars, octy delete, rerouted breather hose, mini turn signals, bar end mirrors, TC's fuse block, TKAT fork brace. No fairings. No windscreen. No hard bags. More to come...eventually...
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#30
08-29-2016, 09:27 PM
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Yep, Simple Green will etch and eventually dissolve aluminum so don't go dousing your structural aluminum or flight surfaces with the stuff.
So will ammonia, Pine Sol, Zep, table salt, bleach, pool or battery acid and so on. The only thing that's 100% safe to use to clean aluminum is more aluminum.  I've been using tap water with a couple of spoons of sodium carbonate from my lifetime supply can of electrolysis electrolyte and some sodium metasilicate / TSP substitute along with a drop or two of Dawn dish soap. I haven't tried any acid solutions yet, just alkaline but it works so far. I ordered some Yamaha carburetor dip from Parker Yamaha in Arizona (yes, it's legal in California) so I'm going to try it out in the ultrasonic cleaner when I do the carburetors. It should make a decent aluminum cleaner too but it's a little expensive for general use at ~$30/10 liters of solution. Yamalube Carburetor Cleaner Dip Manufacturer Part No: ACCCARBCLENR 
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