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  #181  
Old 07-26-2018, 03:59 PM
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skids skids is offline
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Ask the seller what the primary ohms are. I bet they are 3 ohms. If so, you bypass the ballast resistor like I did.

There is are a pair of bullet connectors about 5 inches from the BR inside the sheath. Strip it back and plug the bullet connectors together to bypass).

The black box needs about 3 ohms on the output side. If there is only 1.5 ohms total it will burn out. That is why the BR is installed for 1.5 ohm coils.

On the other hand, if the coils are 3 ohms, the BR is not needed. If the coils are 3 ohm and the BR is still installed the resistance to the black box will be something like 4.5 ohms. The current to fire the plugs would be diminished.
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  #182  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:56 PM
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His reply was not very convincing, and I'm not sure what he means by wire to primary? but the resistance does seem high..

"Yeah I had to look online. I get 4 ohms on the primary. Reading wire to primary, my meter doesnt register anything. My meter isn't the best and I could be doing something wrong. Let me know how you'd like to proceed."
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  #183  
Old 07-26-2018, 10:57 PM
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The primary side is where you would measure for the 3 ohms, not the spark plug wires, the other connectors where the wht/red and orange or gray wires connect. Spark plug wire (secondary) to primary there should be no reading IIRC.
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  #184  
Old 07-28-2018, 12:42 PM
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The seller of my posted Ebay link was reading weird resistances and had somebody else put in an offer on it, so I didn't pull the trigger. I assume these from 1997 won't do the trick? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-97-HON...d=232860849698

Or this from a Goldwing https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-85-HON...kAAOSw-JJac3Ro



While I wait for a good set of VFR coils to pop up on Ebay, can I still put my old coils back in and see if it can at least run, even if sluggishly? It seems since the coils are sealed, there's no way to repair, swap out wires, or clean without some of the cutting modifications I've seen on here...

I haven't had her running in a year (it wasn't pretty though) and want to see if my corrected timing with the addition of an ACCT and the other repairs make it close to fully operational. This thing has become a money pit and new coils are $$.
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Last edited by stoneairsoft; 07-28-2018 at 12:47 PM.
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  #185  
Old 07-28-2018, 01:17 PM
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A low battery in the meter can cause wrong readings. You need to verify the primary resistance on any coil you buy. If possible, buy a "set" so they match.
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  #186  
Old 07-29-2018, 06:57 PM
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So I reinstalled the original coils & hooked everything back up to give her a test run, only to find gas pouring out around both petcocks. I tried to use some rags & persist in my testing, but noticed the fuel wasn't moving down the lines, so gave up.

Is this the kind of rebuild kit I need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Petcoc...wAAOSwvYha8sZ~
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  #187  
Old 07-29-2018, 08:39 PM
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Yes, as long as you have a Special tank, those will fit.
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  #188  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:24 PM
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I got the rebuild kit today & replaced the hardened rubber on the petcocks, but just want to confirm this piece
must be for an XJ tank? I don’t see a spot for it on my special...or looks like maybe for the 650?

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Last edited by stoneairsoft; 08-02-2018 at 09:29 PM.
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  #189  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:37 PM
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Also want to confirm where vac advance hose goes since I’m bypassing the octy... do I then need to cap the nipple of intake boot #2? I believe TC advised me to, but idk if he knew I’d removed the octy.

From #72:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schming View Post
The hose, in your last pic, goes to the nipple on the carb #2.

Should run better with the hose in the right place.

Looks like plug #4 isn't gapped properly?
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Last edited by stoneairsoft; 08-02-2018 at 09:39 PM.
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  #190  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:02 PM
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As you do not have the octy, the big square thing isn't used. Carb #2 BOOT should be capped. Carb #2 MUST have a hose from it to the advance unit on the left side.
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  #191  
Old 08-03-2018, 10:10 AM
Ranger_xs1100 Ranger_xs1100 is offline
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shims

Austin,
Received the returned shims from you today.
Thanks.
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  #192  
Old 08-03-2018, 04:21 PM
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I am having issues with fuel flowing into the carbs. When I hook up the fuel line to my tank with plenty of gas in it, it looks like a marginal amount trickles, then it stops with an air bubble still visible.

Turning over the bike does not pull fuel in as I had hoped. I pulled the plug on the outside of #1 carb and no fuel came out, so I assume there is none in the bowls.

I have even taken out the in line fuel filters in case they were clogged with no success. I had cleaned and dunked the inner parts of the carbs earlier this summer, setting approximate float heights, but never reexamined before placing back in the bike. Should I assume a jet is plugged (though they all seemed clean as a whistle) or the float heights are off? Last fall, when it was partially running, I did not have this problem.

While I wait for you experts to reply, I'm going to take the carbs back out (my least favorite part, especially since I'd hooked up the air box as well, in case the air flow needed to be more restricted or something). I'll also search for carb problems, but there are so many possible things, I don't see it helping much.
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  #193  
Old 08-03-2018, 04:45 PM
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Once the carbs are off the bike, you can test fuel flow easily. I use my bench and vise to hold the carbs upright, and a remote fuel container to feed fuel to the carbs. With a couple of brass "T"s you can split the single line from your small tank, and feed all 4 carbs at once.
As the carbs are '80's, you only have one connection between carbs 1&2, 3&4, for the fuel. IF you have a second connection above the fuel, you have the early style carbs, and that is a vent! It MUST be open to air, and usually is plugged into the two nipples on the front/top of the airbox. If the airbox is from a later model, the nipples have not been drilled, and the carbs will not vent. This could cause fuel problems.
Hope this gives you something to think about, and maybe a little help from the left coast.
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  #194  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:37 PM
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Thank you for the seasoned advice.
I do have the '80s carbs with one inlet to #1-2 and one inlet to #3-4. So I should just watch and see if fuel flows? Do I need to take anything on the carbs apart?



I did take off the bowls of all 4 carb bodies. All but one had stuck float needles which I had to heat up (per advice I found here somewhere before) and work with carb cleaner to free. Since I assumed those were my issues, I reassembled and replaced on the bike.
Cylinder #4 is firing consistently, but is the only one, based on the heat of the pipe. I tried spitballing the idle mixture screws on top to no avail. Still no flow of fuel in carbs 1-2.

Unfortunately, I leave for vaca soon and I'll have to leave it for a week.

Can I leave the airbox off until I get it running or will that affect operation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DiverRay View Post
Once the carbs are off the bike, you can test fuel flow easily. I use my bench and vise to hold the carbs upright, and a remote fuel container to feed fuel to the carbs. With a couple of brass "T"s you can split the single line from your small tank, and feed all 4 carbs at once.
As the carbs are '80's, you only have one connection between carbs 1&2, 3&4, for the fuel. IF you have a second connection above the fuel, you have the early style carbs, and that is a vent! It MUST be open to air, and usually is plugged into the two nipples on the front/top of the airbox. If the airbox is from a later model, the nipples have not been drilled, and the carbs will not vent. This could cause fuel problems.
Hope this gives you something to think about, and maybe a little help from the left coast.
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Last edited by stoneairsoft; 08-03-2018 at 06:41 PM.
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  #195  
Old 08-03-2018, 10:48 PM
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I think you will need to pull the carbs again, so don't worry about the airbox now.
Once off, flip the carb bank upside down and pull all 4 bowls. You need to check for 3 things.
1. Floats go up and down without sticking. easy way is slowly flip the carbs with the bowl off, watching the floats and needles. All 4 should go about the same rate as you S-L-O-W-L-Y roll the carbs.
2. Check the static height of the floats. I don't remember the exact setting for the '80, but it should be someplace close to 25mm, +- 2mm. Big thing is all 8 float sides are the same.
3. With carbs upside down, hook up a line with water from a tank about two feet above the carbs. Connect the first two carbs, and verify no water leaks out until you raise the float. Also verify that water WILL flow when the float is raised.
This will show that the needles and floats are working as they should. Once that happens, we go to the next phase.
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