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  #16  
Old 04-15-2019, 08:59 PM
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I'm fascinated by the penetrating oil test results.

Thanks for posting it Brian!
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  #17  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kboehringer View Post
This is something (I believe) everyone should do. Unlike others, I personally prefer to use the paper gaskets (just a personal preference).

KURT
I like them too Kurt. Not that I have any good reason to , just nostalgic for original ways and the 70's

I have the header crush ring gaskets and valve cover gasket (parts-n-more) but no pan gasket yet.

Thanks for the tip on the engine set.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPittma100 View Post
Brian, some or maybe all of the aftermarket exhausts were configured for the mufflers to slip on/off. Thus, four separate header pipes. After a number of years assembled, it normally requires oxy/acetylene heat to separate them.
I believe it is a patch job on original exhaust components. Time will tell what is going once I can buy a hex key socket set and apply to those exhaust stud nuts..
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:54 PM
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Hit the nuts with homebrew before trying to loosen them! a bit of ATF/Acetone will help loosen up the years of rust.
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  #20  
Old 04-17-2019, 07:22 PM
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50 - 50

50% success.

Weeks of applying Liquid Wrench seemed to work on pipes 3 and 4, they gave up the nuts fairly easy, not much effort at all.

Similar effort on pipes 1 & 2 took the studs out with the nuts. At least they came out without breaking studs off

On re-assembly, do I just leave the nuts on the studs and put them back in like a regular bolt?

Brian
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  #21  
Old 04-17-2019, 08:42 PM
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Brian, I highly recommend nuts be removed and studs screwed in seperately as those holes are bottom holes. Screw studs in, and to snug them down double nut the stud, tighten stud, remove double nut.
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