Home arrow Forums

Go Back   XS11.com Forums > Maintenance > Wheels & Suspension

Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 04-14-2010, 08:42 PM
TopCatGr58's Avatar
TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,621
Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part1

Changing Rear Tire Pictorial: Special Part 1

by T.C."TopCat" Gresham , posted 04-14-10

Hey Folks,

Just did this, so wanted to post it as a pictorial guide for the rest of the site.
Please refer to your manuals for differences between this Special and a Standard.

First, put the bike on the centerstand, and then I suggest using a floor jack under the crossbar of the CS to raise the rear higher so you can put a few 2x4's or such to get the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Also suggest having someone ELSE hold/stabilize the bike during this jacking and blocking process! This can facilitate the rear tire/wheel removal without having to remove or hinge the rear fender!

My old tire is a Dunlop K491 Elite II MU90/140/90-16 RWL(Raised White Letters). Website specs say it's 5.57" wide, my calipers showed 5.66"! But as you can see, I had a RUBBING problem! Note the lack of swingarm clearance!

The Elite 3 MU90-16 BW(Black Wall) says it's also supposed to be 5.57" wide. The first photo shows it a bit narrower, but it's UNMounted!

Next, you'll note the Valve Stem alignment DOT, along with the rotation arrow.

The Born On Date shows the 03 week of the year 2010!

A few notes on wear. This tire's Born On Date was the 29th week of 2003, about 7 years old, had roughly 10K miles, and still some decent tread depth.
But you'll note(Tod/Trbig) that there aren't any "pussy" strips on the edges!
I don't daily ride this thing, hence it's age! But old rubber gets hard and slippery, so time to change!

Next, it's a good idea and time to also change the Final Drive gear oil, along with maintanence for the drive shaft splines, so draining the FD is a good start.

Next, remove the cotter pin, and then loosen/remove the axle castle nut/washer!

Next, loosen the axle pinch bolt on the right side. You'll note that the Exhaust Muffler will be removed to allow the axle room to slide out. There's supposed to be a fancy cable tool to allow you to suspend the swingarm up enough to clear the OEM pipes, but most folks probably won't have it!

You'll be loosening the lower shock nut to remove the FD unit, so you could loosen/remove the right lower shock nut/bolt and allow the swingarm to DROP down to provide clearance of the axle below the muffler, your choice!

Continued in part 2.....

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Integrated by BBpixel ©2004-2022, jvbPlugin