'79 XS project by a mechanical newbie. (But hey, it was free)

[stoneairsoft]

Wow! Thanks guys.

PM coming

Originally Posted by DiverRay

I can send the 270 I've got. send a pm with address.

[stoneairsoft]

This may be a silly question, but should I use permatex non-hardening gasket sealer on the head gasket? I've read that it should always be put on without any kind of sealer.

[DiverRay]

NO! Head gasket should go on dry. The only thing I would EVER put on a head gasket is copper seal, and that would be for a water cooled engine to keep the threat of leaks down.

[Rasputin]

Originally Posted by stoneairsoft

I checked with the local shop for shims and they want $8 a piece for them. With needing 5 shims, $40 seems a bit ridiculous as that's half a shim kit. I'm hoping someone can hook me up on here for a bit less.

I have about 120 shims here but just postage would cost you more that plain buying those outright.

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks for the (sort of) offer. I may just have to cave in a buy one from the local shop, but the dude I spoke with on the phone was pretty rude, so I'm resistant to that.



I've gotten shims from Steve and Bob so far. Thanks gents!

Originally Posted by Rasputin

I have about 120 shims here but just postage would cost you more that plain buying those outright.

[Ranger_xs1100]

what size do you still need?

[stoneairsoft]

I just need a 270 or a 275. Either size.



(Ray has a 270 on the way, so I have 4/5 accounted for)

Originally Posted by Ranger_xs1100

what size do you still need?

[Ranger_xs1100]

Originally Posted by stoneairsoft

I just need a 270 or a 275. Either size.
(Ray has a 270 on the way, so I have 4/5 accounted for)

I have a 270 from a K&L shim kit that I bought, it's not a factory original though,
If that's ok, I'll get out to you in tomorrows mail.

[stoneairsoft]

That’s alright! I’m sure my local bike shop didn’t have OEM anyway.

That would be amazing! Sorry to have you ship twice

Originally Posted by Ranger_xs1100

I have a 270 from a K&L shim kit that I bought, it's not a factory original though,
If that's ok, I'll get out to you in tomorrows mail.

[Ranger_xs1100]

Originally Posted by stoneairsoft

That’s alright! I’m sure my local bike shop didn’t have OEM anyway.

That would be amazing! Sorry to have you ship twice

No Problem...It's in the mail.

[stoneairsoft]

Engine all put back together with timing confirmed (this time). It took me about 4 tries before I got it. Carbs bench synched and put on.

I rechecked the coils. They still match these numbers. The primaries are way too high, correct? Like 200% of what they should be. I'm not looking forward to more cost or aftermarket coils requiring modification, but that's my only choice, right?


What are the closest to stock or easiest to install coils? I don't care too much about "power". (The FAQ is from 16 years ago...wondering if anything has changed)

Originally Posted by stoneairsoft

Primary:
L 3.5ohms
R 4.1ohms

Secondary:
L 14.8
R 14.6

Based on my reading, the primary looks good but the secondaries are both higher than spec...granted it’s about 50° in my garage right now.


What I really need guidance on is this:
At this point, is it best to cut my losses & part out for sale? If the valve stem seals are bad, that looks like a ton of work, if the coils are bad, that adds costs, AND I’m not super savvy (as my post title suggests). help!

[DiverRay]

Did you measure the coils with the spark plug caps on? if so, add 10K to the reading. Plug caps just unscrew, so you can take them off one at a time and measure each cap. They should be 5-7K Ohm resistance between the wire side and the plug side, as they have an internal resistor. You can replace them with non resistor caps and then run resistor plugs, witch are easier to find.
IF the coils are still high, the Honda VFR coils bolt in, and you bypass the ballast resistor. They also give you the ability to replace the plug wires easily.

[Ranger_xs1100]

Originally Posted by stoneairsoft

Engine all put back together with timing confirmed (this time). It took me about 4 tries before I got it. Carbs bench synched and put on.

I rechecked the coils. They still match these numbers. The primaries are way too high, correct? Like 200% of what they should be. I'm not looking forward to more cost or aftermarket coils requiring modification, but that's my only choice, right?


What are the closest to stock or easiest to install coils? I don't care too much about "power". (The FAQ is from 16 years ago...wondering if anything has changed)

Hi Stone,
I grabbed some OEM coils out of my parts box today and tested all 4 of them. They have primary readings between 2.5 - 2.9 ohms. the secondary's with plug caps removed measure between 14.9k and 15.3k on the 4 of them.
Hope that helps.

[stoneairsoft]

I want to clarify that all four seemed to have good spark before disassembling.

Thanks Bob, those seem similar to mine, but a bit closer to spec.


Ray,
I measured secondary with the caps off.

I measured primary using the manual's method like such. Since these are the ones way off, I'll need to replace them, correct? It doesn't matter which (primary or secondary) is off? It seems unusual that the primary would be so far off but the secondary is close to/at spec.

What year are you referring to for the VFR coils? The only alternatives on the old FAQ are the Dyna and Accel.

Originally Posted by DiverRay

Did you measure the coils with the spark plug caps on? if so, add 10K to the reading. Plug caps just unscrew, so you can take them off one at a time and measure each cap. They should be 5-7K Ohm resistance between the wire side and the plug side, as they have an internal resistor. You can replace them with non resistor caps and then run resistor plugs, witch are easier to find.
IF the coils are still high, the Honda VFR coils bolt in, and you bypass the ballast resistor. They also give you the ability to replace the plug wires easily.

[DiverRay]

The late 80's to I think early 2000's Honda VFR 600-1100 models that used dual coils like the XS will bolt right up to the mounts. The plug wires are removable, and they are 3 Ohm so no ballast resistor required.
On your primary reading, if the coils are a later model, they will be about 3 Ohm, so you would be good. If you have a late production '79, it could have come from the factory with the 3 Ohm, and no ballast resistor.