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  #16  
Old 09-25-2016, 06:34 PM
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After looking around it looks like it could be wiring/starter/distribution problem since it's 1 and 4 that are cold?
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2016, 06:55 PM
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Nope, nothing even close to Amazon, sorry. You're right though, it's most likely that 1&4 aren't firing.

Some fuel and ignition problems happen in pairs.
Ignition: 1&4, 2&3 pairs share ignition and pick-up coils.
Fuel: 1&2, 3&4 pairs share the left and right fuel taps.

So the 1&4 problem on your '78E is most likely ignition.

If it were 1&2, for example, the most likely problem would be the left-hand fuel tap isn't opening or the fuel line is kinked.
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2016, 04:54 PM
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So, I've been reading about the BP6ES plugs, and the 2-3 wire caps (100 ones) had screw tops, so I bought those after realizing four with non-removable tops won't work.
However, 1-4 now have resister plugs and 2-3 have non-resister. I tried taking the wire off 1-4 and saw no spark, (this may be dumb) but I need to remove the plug to test for spark, right? I assume yes.

But my big question is if I need non resister plugs with such old wires/distributor?
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  #19  
Old 10-02-2016, 06:23 PM
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The resistors are for shielding of EMF. I use NGK Irridium plugs on mine (they have resistors), with non-resistorized caps (all 90 degree caps).

There is no harm in running them without resistors, with the exception of causing EMF noise, which is between you and the FCC.
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2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #20  
Old 10-02-2016, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoneairsoft View Post
So, I've been reading about the BP6ES plugs, and the 2-3 wire caps (100 ones) had screw tops, so I bought those after realizing four with non-removable tops won't work.
However, 1-4 now have resister plugs and 2-3 have non-resister. I tried taking the wire off 1-4 and saw no spark, (this may be dumb) but I need to remove the plug to test for spark, right? I assume yes.

But my big question is if I need non resister plugs with such old wires/distributor?
I'm not sure what you're asking. In the XS1100 the resistor caps use non-resistor spark plugs BP6ES, non-resistor caps use resistor spark plugs BPR6ES. They're the same plugs but one has a resistor and the other doesn't. As Ian said, you can use the non-resistor caps with the resistor-type irridium spark plugs.

You can also have a mix of resistor and non-resistor spark plugs. It's weird but it'll work so it's not too weird. Eventually you will find a pair of resistor or non-resistor caps that you like and you'll have make the decision to use 4 resistor spark plugs, 4 non-resistor spark plugs, or stick with the mix.

For troubleshooting you can take the wires off the spark plugs and leave the spark plugs in the head while you check for spark but don't unplug both wires of a spark plug wire pair at the same time and crank the engine: 1&4 or 2&3. Don't leave any of the ends just hanging loose and not grounded to something, that will mess up the coils.

If you want, you can put spare spark plugs in the both ends of the wire pairs and ground them both to the engine, then look for spark at both plugs instead of doing it one at a time.

The age of the ignition system doesn't mean it uses non-resistor spark plugs, it's just how it's designed to operate. The stock XS1100 ignition uses sealed, one-piece ignition coils with non-removable secondary wires and non-resistive stainless steel cores. They had to put the secondary resistance somewhere so Yamaha added spark plug caps with internal resistors and used the slightly less expensive but usually more reliable non-resistor spark plugs. So you bought one resistor with the cap and used the less expensive non-resistor plugs until the resistor in the cap broke down, then you buy another cap with a new resistor and start over again.
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  #21  
Old 10-02-2016, 06:33 PM
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The limey's know how to have fun:

http://xs1100.com/forum/index.php?topic=9302.0
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2016, 06:37 PM
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Thanks all for your help! Sometimes I'm not sure what I'm asking either (I'm mechanically illiterate after all). I was basically ssking if a mix of plugs is okay. I'm trying to find the simple solution to my 1-4 problems.
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  #23  
Old 10-02-2016, 06:43 PM
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When it comes to trouble-shooting, my opinion is to keep the constant the same (in this case the plugs), and try your best to mimic a factory condition. So, I advise against pods (without proper tuning knowledge), and anything else that may create a variable. Have you measured the primary & secondary resistance of the coils?

Odds are, it's either the coils, or a broken pick-up coil wire.
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2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #24  
Old 10-02-2016, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
The limey's know how to have fun:

http://xs1100.com/forum/index.php?topic=9302.0
Oi! Wot Miti said!
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  #25  
Old 03-25-2017, 10:48 AM
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Carbs

What's an average cost to tune carbs from someone working out of their garage?
Do I need to have them cleaned first?
Bike has sat since October but I tried to run it dry, first.

I still need to revisit my ignition issue with cyl # 1&4 not firing.
I assume this should be rectified first, before carb tuning can occur?

Remember, I'm a newbie.
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  #26  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoneairsoft View Post
What's an average cost to tune carbs from someone working out of their garage?
Do I need to have them cleaned first?
Bike has sat since October but I tried to run it dry, first.

I still need to revisit my ignition issue with cyl # 1&4 not firing.
I assume this should be rectified first, before carb tuning can occur?

Remember, I'm a newbie.
How do you know that the garage, or ever dealer mechanic has the knowledge to tune the carbs?
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #27  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:46 AM
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Technically I don't. However, a neighbor used him for an "under the seat" wiring issue a big shop messed up on, and I employed him to get a used snow blower that wasn't running, ready for winter.
His business card is for small engines/motos. He seemed pretty knowledgeable when he came to pick up the snow blower, just giving his .02 about it since it was sitting in my garage too.
He charges $30/hr

Quote:
Originally Posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
How do you know that the garage, or ever dealer mechanic has the knowledge to tune the carbs?
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  #28  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:58 AM
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What could I ask that'd show he knows his stuff?
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  #29  
Old 03-25-2017, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoneairsoft View Post
What could I ask that'd show he knows his stuff?
Ask him how he plans to set the Air/fuel ratio, and how he will sync the carbs? Will he be ensuring the floats are set correctly?
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #30  
Old 04-22-2017, 01:22 PM
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I've eliminated spark from the 2-3 "cold pipes" issue

I pulled the caps/wires and got good blue/purple spark from each lead.

I resigned myself to carb cleansing, following the stickied tutorial by Smitty. I noticed a couple of bad things.

Thing One: Courtesy of the PO. (Sorry the first one rotated for some reason)





Thing Two was discovered as I was removing the pilot jets. I noticed #1 and #2 were badly damaged and I could not remove them. I was able to remove #3 and #4 no problem.



Is my best option to purchase two new carbs? Especially considering the broken and poorly mended float bowl post?

Anyone have some for sale who'd ship to MN?
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