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  #31  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:32 AM
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Jerry Jerry is offline
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random thoughts

Just a couple of random thoughts. The XJ has two interlocks to prevent the bike from riding off with the kickstand down and the bike in gear. One of these switches is down by the kickstand and has three wires going up to a connector that is just behind and under the fuel tank. The switches are known to go bad and replacements are no longer available from Yamaha. To bypass you need to remove the three wire connector and jump all three wires on the bike side together. I did a Tech Tip on this years ago but have not checked to see if it is still on the site. I used 1/4 inch spade terminals to slip over the blades in the connector and just added a wire connecting all three spades.

It is also possible to repair the switch, takes some care, but can be done. Topic for another post.

Other switch is in the clutch cable. The XJ has an additional pigtail that goes into the clutch lever assembly and trips a switch there. Track this cable to its bike-side connector and jump the bike side wires together to bypass. You may want to put a continuity meter across the lever side wires first to check the circuit is opening and closing as you work the lever. If you get an open - closed response you will not need to jump the wires.

The kickstand switch is far more often the culprit for a non-starting XJ. Since it looks like you have tried everything else, try the kickstand bypass trick and see if that helps.

The kickstand switch is a plunger type and has an o-ring seal on one end. That seal wears and lets dirt and stuff to get into the switch. Often the plunger can't return to its closed position; this activates the kill circuit. It might be possible to work the plunger by hand to make sure it is fully closed but the problem will reappear until the switch is repaired or bypassed.

NOTE: Bypassing the kickstand switch will let you ride off with the kickstand down. If you bypass the switch please take special care to make sure your kickstand is up before putting the XJ in gear and riding off!

Other thoughts on electrical.

The OEM battery cables are now 37 years old or more. Corrosion has built up between the wires and under the lug at the end of the cable. This will cause a voltage drop even if the battery connectors are clean. I replaced the cables on my XJ several years ago and was surprised on how much easier and faster the bike started. At the time I did not have a meter to check voltage drops, but now realize it had to be significant.

The ground wire is not a problem; make up a new cable or find one the right size at a local small engine shop. The positive wire has a pigtail on it that makes a replacement cable harder to find. Check with Yamaha to see if a new cable is available or, again, make one up. I finally bought an inexpensive crimper tool and cable ends on-line and have since made cables to replace the old cables on riding lawn mowers, ATV winches, and other applications that use smaller batteries.
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  #32  
Old 09-14-2019, 04:17 PM
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Brass?!!

It has been strongly suggested to me to NOT use brass unless it's OEM. Something about it and formulated gas not liking each other, not trying to start a debate. My step brother has rebuilt a few Kawasaki, Honda and etc. bikes and advises against brass. Good luck, I'm chasing a demon on my XJ now. Carb issues.
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  #33  
Old 09-15-2019, 07:44 PM
BillyRok BillyRok is offline
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Thanks for your input Jerry. I don't think I have an issue with either of the interlocks you mentioned as I did get the bike to fire before I discovered the melted stator connection. The battery cables are an interesting thought, never occurred to me that there might be some resistance there due to age, I'll have to check that.

Hey Justme, these are the brass carb tees that I bought from Sirius Consolidated Inc. before I knew there was any issues with brass and ethanol.
https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-det...roduct_id=2745
After reading your post I did some searching and found this list of materials that are and are NOT compatible with ethanol...http://iqlearningsystems.com/ethanol...patibility.pdf

These tees were a bit pricey but I figured they were plug and play as opposed to the carb tee fixes on the forum. Maybe I'll contact them to ask about the issue you raised, as in why would they sell something brass that cold lead to problems for a fuel system when it's hard to buy non ethanol gas most places.
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  #34  
Old 09-15-2019, 07:54 PM
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FWIW, I've been running brass T-fitting and electric fuel cutoff valve for years with ethanol gas and no issues have occurred.
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  #35  
Old 09-15-2019, 09:46 PM
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I saw the remark about "OEM brass", but I still note that all the jets are brass. I'm skeptical that there some different "OEM brass".

I also see that aluminum is on the incompatible list Billy referenced. The entire carb bodies are aluminum.

I'm listening if there is something to be learned.
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  #36  
Old 09-16-2019, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioguylogs View Post
I saw the remark about "OEM brass", but I still note that all the jets are brass. I'm skeptical that there some different "OEM brass".

I also see that aluminum is on the incompatible list Billy referenced. The entire carb bodies are aluminum.

I'm listening if there is something to be learned.
My thoughts exactly!
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  #37  
Old 09-16-2019, 07:27 AM
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Carb bodies are a "pot metal", or alloy of metals. Jets ARE brass.
The problems are the new "gas" and the water it attracts because of the alcohol that is now in it. Gas from the late '70's was just that, petroleum products with additives to keep the engine clean and slow the burning in the case of premium. There was no problem with water unless you got a bad tank of gas from a station that didn't check the tanks like they were supposed to.
The "modern" crap has 10% alcohol, and attracts the water from the air. This causes the problems with electrolysis and eats up old carbs, etc. There is also less BTU per pound, so you need a little more "gas" to get the same energy.
If you keep the carbs dry when storing there should be no problems. I would also use the fuel with the lowest amount of alcohol you can find in regular or midgrade. Remember, these bikes were designed to run on REGULAR in the day, NOT premium.
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  #38  
Old 09-16-2019, 10:36 AM
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Octane

Some of my XS bikes have stickers showing "Research Octane 91". I assume that means the calibration and measurements were made with 91 Octane.

I have never seen any evidence that any grade of octane (87-93) is bad.

I did note evidence that new "Top Tier" gasolines have 14 times less carbon deposits than non-Top Tier fuel:
https://www.aaa.com/AAA/common/AAR/f...ull-Report.pdf

In this article, I learned that all gas retailers pick up their fuel from the same distribution points, and they just put in the additives that make them unique for each brand.


Meanwhile, we all still wonder why Billy's XJ is not running.
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'84 Honda V65 Magna ? miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
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  #39  
Old 09-16-2019, 12:04 PM
MaximPhil MaximPhil is offline
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Hi Billy & Mike are you guys coming to Iron Horse this year ?
There dragged it even more of topic

Research Octane number RON is always higher than Motor Octane Numbers MON. Here in North American gas pump numbers are RON + MON /2

I believe , like many others, our XS11's were intended to run on our Regular gas.
Phil
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  #40  
Old 09-16-2019, 02:02 PM
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You 'betcha

I'l be at IH Thursday afternoon - Monday morning for further debate.
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'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 42k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 15k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna ? miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 5k miles

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'68 Motoguzzi 600cc
'79 XS750SF 22k miles
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  #41  
Old 09-16-2019, 03:01 PM
MaximPhil MaximPhil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioguylogs View Post
I'l be at IH Thursday afternoon - Monday morning for further debate.
Hi Mike,
Friday afternoon arrival planned. Early start Monday for the Great White North

Phil
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  #42  
Old 09-16-2019, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioguylogs View Post
Some of my XS bikes have stickers showing "Research Octane 91". I assume that means the calibration and measurements were made with 91 Octane.

I have never seen any evidence that any grade of octane (87-93) is bad.
Research octane is the least severe way to rate gasoline. Motor octane is the most severe. Today we use R+M/2. Yesterday's 100 is today's 93.
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