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  #31  
Old 06-17-2011, 09:51 PM
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3Phase 3Phase is offline
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[quote=XSTrey11;329979I used a tiny hex head screwdriver that just fit inside the broken jet and it back right out! Feeling so accomplished!![/QUOTE]

Way to go! And there's a new entry for the "How to remove broken stuff" list.

There should be a brass washer that fits between the jet and the emulsion tube but the jet should thread all the way down.

Don't force it or you'll have another broken jet.
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  #32  
Old 06-17-2011, 09:57 PM
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Nice work on getting that out!!!

I think I would reinstall the emulsion tube, put the washer in place and see if the main jet tightens up so the emulsion tube does not move up and down. If it does, I would not mess with it.

I would think the washer will take up the gap you have there. At most I would put plenty of penetrating oil in there and lightly turn that main jet in and out trying to ever so gently turn it an additional quarter turn then back it out and go back and forth like that. But only if necessary.
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  #33  
Old 06-18-2011, 12:58 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Okay so the bike smelled like gas in a big way and when i took off the cover a bunch of gase came pouring out that had been trapped in there so that'll explain the gas in the crank case....now, how do i fix this faulty left petcock. They don't have an off setting for me btw there's only PRI RES and FUEL so i assume it is to be left on fuel at all times and it has been.
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  #34  
Old 06-18-2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XSTrey11 View Post
now, how do i fix this faulty left petcock.
Trey, the fuel tap is only one half of the problem. At least one carburetor float valve is leaking or gas wouldn't be able to overflow the float bowl and sneak out of the carburetor.

There's a Tech Tip about fixing leaky fuel taps.


The lever on the fuel tap points to and covers the word for the actual setting. The little raised ridge is just a decoy so it's: Prime, On (not Fuel), Reserve.
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  #35  
Old 06-18-2011, 11:29 PM
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So I've just been looking around at various carb threads and I'm afraid I've got a solid problem. People keep mentioning syncing carbs and rpms and what-have-you. First off I wouldn't know the first thing in how to sync a set of carbs, nor does my motorcycle have a tachometer. Thinking about taking my disassembled carbs and all of the pieces to the yammy dealer and having them finish the job for me. Your thoughts?
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  #36  
Old 06-18-2011, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XSTrey11 View Post
So I've just been looking around at various carb threads and I'm afraid I've got a solid problem. People keep mentioning syncing carbs and rpms and what-have-you. First off I wouldn't know the first thing in how to sync a set of carbs, nor does my motorcycle have a tachometer. Thinking about taking my disassembled carbs and all of the pieces to the yammy dealer and having them finish the job for me. Your thoughts?
i hope u have a lot of money, if at all they'll touch it, itll cost u a
small fortune.
u dont really need a tach to adjust the carbs it just helps,
do a search for bread-tie syncing for the carbs,
its not hard at all to sync the carbs once u understand what to do,
there should be a few posts that describe how to do it well, or if some1
close by might be able to help u out.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8d..._order&list=UL
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  #37  
Old 06-18-2011, 11:53 PM
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heres a link from the maintenance section
of how to sync the carbs of the bike

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88

personally i dont like using the bread tie as for me its to flimsy,
i use a very small allen key, in the end it doesnt matter what u
use as long as whatever u do use,u use for all 4 carbs.

if anything u dont understand let us know.
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new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa


former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8d..._order&list=UL
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  #38  
Old 06-19-2011, 06:53 AM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Agree with Pete here. It is not hard, you just need to do some research and ask questions. You really are much better off doing the work yourself and having the stuff to do it because you will have to redo it many times. The only tool you really need is the sync tool. The tool costs less than what you would pay a shop to do the work once and then you can do it as many times as you need to after that.

This is the best sync tool in my opinion http://www.carbtune.com/ , really does pay for itself fast!
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  #39  
Old 06-19-2011, 08:51 AM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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Synchronizing carbs

The bread tie method that Pete linked to is a good STARTING point for synching. This sets all the butterfly plates to be the same opening. Now, if all of your cylinders have the exact same compression, and the valves are all exactly the same cleanliness wise, and your carbs are all exactly the same settings, and your exhaust is all exactly the same pressure.....and reality is that none of those are exactly the same......then the bread tie synch would be right on perfect.

Welcome to the real world, all of those thing svary just a little at least for each cylinder. So when the engine is running, each cylinder draws a little different vacuum (or maybe ALOT different vacuum) with the bread tie synch. So ti is very important to perform the running synch. NOT a Yamaha XS1100, but here is a good video on the process.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr6_Q...eature=related

That video gives some good detail on the process. Here is one 3-phase did on an XS11......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijAM9skj0S4

Again, trying to run off just the bread tie synch is about the same to me as tightening your head bolts to "good-n-tight" and calling that close enough. Not something I could ever do and sleep well.
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  #40  
Old 06-19-2011, 10:40 AM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGXSER View Post
The bread tie method that Pete linked to is a good STARTING point for synching. This sets all the butterfly plates to be the same opening. Now, if all of your cylinders have the exact same compression, and the valves are all exactly the same cleanliness wise, and your carbs are all exactly the same settings, and your exhaust is all exactly the same pressure.....and reality is that none of those are exactly the same......then the bread tie synch would be right on perfect.

Welcome to the real world, all of those thing svary just a little at least for each cylinder. So when the engine is running, each cylinder draws a little different vacuum (or maybe ALOT different vacuum) with the bread tie synch. So ti is very important to perform the running synch. NOT a Yamaha XS1100, but here is a good video on the process.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr6_Q...eature=related

That video gives some good detail on the process. Here is one 3-phase did on an XS11......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijAM9skj0S4

Again, trying to run off just the bread tie synch is about the same to me as tightening your head bolts to "good-n-tight" and calling that close enough. Not something I could ever do and sleep well.
Okay well i've watched both of those videos and they both seem easy enough to do. The only thing I'm worried about is how im going to set up my fuel feed, not sure how to go about that...also noticed a bit of rust in my fuel tank but i think i'm going to have to leave that be and just worry about getting the bike back up and running for now.
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  #41  
Old 06-19-2011, 11:57 AM
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Wink

Thinking about taking my disassembled carbs and all of the pieces to the yammy dealer and having them finish the job for me. Your thoughts?
Wish you luck with that.........let us know how that all worked out!
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  #42  
Old 06-19-2011, 12:00 PM
XSTrey11 XSTrey11 is offline
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Easy fix for those Trey.......run the slotted top-side across some emery paper set flat on table or whatever to get past the burrs, take a dremal with a cut-off wheel and re-slot. Got alot of distance to mess with there, so don't worry bout that. Slotted screwdriver side will look and work like new!.....don't forget to replace the teeny o-rings and make sure the teeny washers are there. They are also available as a Suzuki part # same as the o-rings. Before assembling that portion, put a very lite film of anti-seize on those brass threads and run them in and out a couple times to smooth and clean up the aluminum threads in the carb casting, then put the spring, washer, o-rings on...in that order.....hope that helps!
Where are these "teeny o rings" and "teeny washers"? were they supposed to be where the pilot jets were?
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  #43  
Old 06-19-2011, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XSTrey11 View Post
Okay well i've watched both of those videos and they both seem easy enough to do. The only thing I'm worried about is how im going to set up my fuel feed, not sure how to go about that...also noticed a bit of rust in my fuel tank but i think i'm going to have to leave that be and just worry about getting the bike back up and running for now.
easiest way for fuel feed is to turn the tank backwards, I put a board across the frame where the seat sits to stabilize it. Then just hook the petcocks to the fuel lines with the tank back enough to get to the carb screws.
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80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
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80 CB750 C
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  #44  
Old 06-19-2011, 12:06 PM
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Where are these "teeny o rings" and "teeny washers"? were they supposed to be where the pilot jets were? ///////They are under the idle mix screws......if there still there.
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  #45  
Old 06-19-2011, 12:09 PM
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Where are these "teeny o rings" and "teeny washers"? were they supposed to be where the pilot jets were? ///////They are under the idle mix screws......if there still there.
Okay, I haven't taken those completely out yet.
I can't wait to get home from work now and dig into these things more. haha. I still have to take those out and take out the float needle seats? that seemed scary in the how to thread so i skipped it for the time being.
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