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Old 02-12-2009, 01:08 PM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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2 problems starting and turnsignals

i have a new xs11 79 full tour not special. sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't. if you short across the solenoid it would start and run but now it stops running as soon as you remove the screwdrive. anybody know how to test wether switch or solenoid?

also.. when it runs the running lights and headlight light but turn signals/brake lights and idiot lights don't light? fuse is good... its a touring variant with the headlight in the fairing.
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  #2  
Old 02-12-2009, 01:42 PM
tarzan tarzan is offline
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I worked one last summer that did that.One of the white wires from the generator was grounding against the frame.It fried the rectifier/regulator too.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:24 PM
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corey corey is offline
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Sounds like a short to ground somewhere, I'd start by giving each connector and bit of wire some attention... investigating, cleaning, etc.

Seems like you could back probe the connections for the starter switch to rule it out as the problem. A DMM will show you whether its got the right current in the right place. Should just be looking for battery voltage. Wiring diagrams are here on the site, I hear.

GOOD LUCK!
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:46 PM
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XSPastor XSPastor is offline
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Ballast resistor maybe?

Check the ignition ballast resistor.

This thread may be of interest.
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Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2009, 07:06 AM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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update

ballast resistor reads 2.8 ohms
voltage across battery is 12.50
voltage across fuses is
main 11.8
headlight 10.8
turnsignals 10.8
ignition 10.8

bike fires from shorting across starter solenoid
but quits as soon as you stop

no lights or indications when you turn it on.
before (yesterday) if you turn the key on it would light the running lights but would only start intermittently
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2009, 07:08 AM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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update ps

with the button. would always start and run if you shorted across the solenoid
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2009, 07:18 AM
randy randy is offline
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This is a classic ballast resistor problem. Your resistor may read good, but how are the connections? Also check / clean all connections from the TCI to the coils. Your voltage readings are on the brink of go-no-go. Shorting across the solenoid the system is bypassing the ballast resistor and the coils are getting just enough voltage to fire. Remove the solenoid short and the ballast resistor comes back into the circuit, dropping the coil voltage below optimum. While your busy cleaning connections, put the battery on a charger.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:39 AM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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Smile problem solved

amazing.... so i was considering that the new battery had dropped off voltage a bit and the 10.6 wasnt good enough. so i hooked up a battery box and lo and behold when i turned it on the indicator lights came on(they never worked before). and way bright. so i got some contact cleaner and did the battery terminal and ground connector and the solenoid terminals. i put everthing back on with a socket instead of a screw driver. now my tach works, my turnsignals work. my volt guage works and the fuel level. the only thing not workin is the 8 track in the fairing. so i guess the lesson learned is always go back to the basics. so carb rebuild and master/caliper rebuild on the front and I'll be good to go. thanx for your suggestions.. p.s. any recommendation on cleaners to dissolve the gunk on the paint?
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:57 AM
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Glad you solved your problem. As you found out, sometimes the solution is the simplest one. With electrical problems, it's best to start with cleaning all the connections - lots of corrosion in 30 year old wires and connectors. As far as cleaners for the paint... it depends what the "gunk" you refer to is made of but if it's just normal road dirt, bugs, and tar, then an automotive bug and tar remover should work. Some of the chemists on this forum may want to chime in if they have a "home brew" remedy that has worked well for them.
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Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2009, 10:00 AM
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XSPastor XSPastor is offline
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Thumbs up Get the grease!

One other thing adeelman... Slather some dielectric grease on those newly-cleaned connections. They'll stay trouble-free a lot longer.
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Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2009, 12:49 PM
yadada yadada is offline
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Glad it's solved. I was starting to think it might have been your thumbs. No start, no signals.....no thumbs???? Sorry.....
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2009, 11:18 PM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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new problem

now the indicators are nice and bright /the turnsignals work / it starts fine.
but i have no headlight or running light. anybody know where the relay that controls the headlight is. any suggestions? i'm gonna clean all the connectors i can find tomorrow. but it should be a specific area cause its just running lights and headlights.

thanx in advance for all your help
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2009, 11:31 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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Check the fuse if you haven't already. The headlight relay is under the gas tank, up towards the front by the ignition coils. If the bulb checks out good, the relay can be bypassed by connecting the red/yel and blu/blk wires together. The headlight should power up by turning on the key. The headlight should normally come on only once the engine is started, as the relay gets a signal from the alternator. But first, I'd check the connectors in the headlight bucket.
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2009, 03:44 PM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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again new problem

no no power whatsoever. 12.7 at the main 30a fuse and nothing at the other 3 removed the fairing(held on with 2 zip ties) and cycled all the connectors in what would have been the headlight box. the fairing connector is disconnected. no events between the changes in status... just one day it works the next it doesnt. jiggling the key doesnt change anything nor does jiggling the connector. gonna go back and try again.

are there any connectors behind the fuse plate.
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2009, 03:48 PM
adleeman adleeman is offline
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[IMG]g:/dcim/100sanph/sany0800.jpg[/IMG]
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