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  #16  
Old 07-15-2018, 06:39 AM
mack mack is offline
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Yes

It can take a long time to force the air bubbles down. The pesky devils always want to flow back up hill. Don't you remember when we did your 11. Jim pumped and I pumped on that handle for hours before it stiffened up.
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  #17  
Old 07-15-2018, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blank Slate View Post
reservoir keeps going down, i keep topping it up without any air getting in, fluid keeps coming out of the calipher, but no tightening of the brake lever.

when i take a break, i tie up the handle so its pushed in.

i guess ill just keep at it ��
The Mity Vac you're using is the only thing needed to bleed successfully, however, it needs to be hooked up properly



Looks to me the bleeding bottle is omitted in the pic. If the vac in the pic is indeed a Mity vac brand then on page 21 of the tools manual shows the correct setup with the bottle inline between the caliper and the vac pump, BUT there is an orientation of the hoses that needs to be adhered to which you may already know as I'm not lecturing, just sayin'

With the MV there is no need to squeeze/ pump the brake lever, it sucks all the air out through the bleeder. BUT, the bleeder threads have to be sealed so I slather a coating of grease with a small paint brush around the bleeder screw at the caliper.

With that said I've bled brakes successfully, for 40 plus years, on many vehicles pumping, holding, releasing, repeating til I got myself a cheap version of the Mity Vac from HF and wallah no more second person (my daughter thanxs me ) pumping, holding, releasing

That cheap vac's seal went bad so I picked up a real Mity Vac and has worked perfectly on all the vehicles my family owns.

P.S. page 22 in the MV manual has the MC bleeding info

BTW, NICE Twin you have there !!!
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1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

Last edited by Schming; 07-15-2018 at 10:41 AM.
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2018, 11:41 AM
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The other thing to try is when you have the handle tied down, use something to tap on the upper brake line. Start from the caliper and work your way up. This should allow the small air bubbles to slowly go up to the master cyl.
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  #19  
Old Yesterday, 10:02 PM
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I second Ray's comment. I spent a good 2 hours tapping bubbles out of my lines when I swapped my stainless lines in. Lots of bubbles trapped in the block on the forks. Not sure why, but air kept getting trapped in there. Keep at it, as it just takes quite a bit of time.
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  #20  
Old Today, 03:09 PM
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Yes Ill keep at it. I tried using the mitivac on the nipple directly, and then the way it’s intended to work, connected to a container and then to the nipple. I didnt know using method 2 that i dont need to pump handle. good to know!!!

In other news, I did my research and found the size battery I needed (8-1/8 x 3-9/16 x 6-3/8) and went to order a new one. Height ok but a few inches short. Is it going to rattle too much? The connectors are also sideways and my cables are too short, I need new cables or McGuiver something. I hate life right now.

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Last edited by Blank Slate; Today at 03:11 PM.
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  #21  
Old Today, 03:26 PM
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Yeah, it "looks" short in terms of length, and too tall. If it is too tall, there could be trouble. I suspect that is why your cables will not reach. Also I question the "UPS" label. If it is an uninterrupted power supply type battery (and not just the name of the company), it may not be suitable for starting an engine (not sure). It is something you want to be sure of in case you need to send it back.
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  #22  
Old Today, 03:47 PM
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https://postimg.cc/gallery/nx4g8d5k/

looks like champagne with all the bubbles in my tubes. i mean, bubbles are rushing out hard. Is this a good sign?
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Frame: 79 XS1100S
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Carbs: 78-79 BS34

Gf bike: 78 XS650S
Carbs: 70-79 BS38

Pics: http://tinypic.com/2mpmkpjb

Last edited by Blank Slate; Today at 03:52 PM.
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  #23  
Old Today, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skids View Post
Yeah, it "looks" short in terms of length, and too tall. If it is too tall, there could be trouble. I suspect that is why your cables will not reach. Also I question the "UPS" label. If it is an uninterrupted power supply type battery (and not just the name of the company), it may not be suitable for starting an engine (not sure). It is something you want to be sure of in case you need to send it back.
hey sid, itís not too tall. and i was able to bend the cable in a way to reach. the bike started beautifully. i hope i dont have to remove the battery for years because it was a pain to assemble.
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Frame: 79 XS1100S
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Carbs: 78-79 BS34

Gf bike: 78 XS650S
Carbs: 70-79 BS38

Pics: http://tinypic.com/2mpmkpjb
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  #24  
Old Today, 04:06 PM
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I read in the yamaha manual not to use a “speed bleeder” nipple. however my oem nipple is badly stripped so it makes opening and closing the nipple difficult. so i had a new speed bleeder lying around and that’s what Im using. just wondering what problem would it cause?


www.xs650direct.com/products-50.html
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Frame: 79 XS1100S
Engine: 81 XS1100S
Carbs: 78-79 BS34

Gf bike: 78 XS650S
Carbs: 70-79 BS38

Pics: http://tinypic.com/2mpmkpjb
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  #25  
Old Today, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blank Slate View Post
I read in the yamaha manual not to use a “speed bleeder” nipple. however my oem nipple is badly stripped so it makes opening and closing the nipple difficult. so i had a new speed bleeder lying around and that’s what Im using. just wondering what problem would it cause?


www.xs650direct.com/products-50.html
The speed bleeder or a stock bleeder, when using the MV, should be treated the same.

This is the way I bleed my calipers.

1) Top off the MC with brake fluid (leave cover off to monitor level)

2) Make sure bleeder nipple can be loosened and it has a good seal on the threads (grease for me)

3) Connect MV like you have in your pic

4) With nipple closed (either type) pump the MV to at least 15 and stop, make sure you have a good seal and if so, then open nipple, let it draw fluid through then close nipple when the vac gets down around 5 and repeat til no more bubbles come through the line. Remember to check level in MC between each sequence of bleeding.

Might take a couple of times but I haven't had to pump the lever at all using the MV and my front brakes, with SS braided lines from XJ4Ever.com, can and are applied with two fingers at every stop.

GL

P.S. That isn't the correct battery for a motorcycle
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1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

Last edited by Schming; Today at 05:15 PM.
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  #26  
Old Today, 05:36 PM
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skids skids is offline
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The mighty vac has always leaked air around the threads of the bleeder nipple. It will give the impression that there is air in the brake system even when there is none. If you do the mighty vac while pumping the handle, it will give the best results (2-person operation). Of course you might have to move to the other fork side to get out all of the air. I used speed bleeders on both sides and replacing the fluid was quite easy without a mityvac.
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Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
One with Jardine 4-1 pipes. 8500 feet elevation.
03 Honda ST1300 ABS
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