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  #1  
Old 04-07-2020, 04:50 PM
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IanDMacDonald IanDMacDonald is offline
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Synthetic Oil

Kinda bored, so why not a good oil thread!
Besides Bonz, who's run synthetic in their bikes?
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2020, 06:10 PM
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BA80 BA80 is offline
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Synthetic seems to work fine if you have upgraded your clutch frictions to a more modern material. The old frictions HATE it though.

I've never replaced any frictions in any of my 11s because they have all been well within specs. New springs and "Ride On" with basic dino 20w50.

Ol' Okie has over 200K on the frame and the current engine over 100K. I see no reason to mess with that. But, that's just me.
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Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.Ē

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80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:20 PM
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jetmechmarty jetmechmarty is offline
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Iíve run Amsoil and Mobil1 in my XS1100 without issue. Both designated motorcycle oil. I stopped because itís expensive. Less expensive oil gets changed more often. Clean and slippery is best.
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:21 PM
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IanDMacDonald IanDMacDonald is offline
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Yeah, Greg. I'm with you on running Super Tech from Walmart. Never saw any harm. Auto Zone has Castrol 20W50 for $4/qt. I was just curious.
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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  #5  
Old 04-08-2020, 07:13 AM
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skids skids is offline
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I either use syn-blend or a good quality dino. One of the Rotellaís is supposed to be rated for bikes. Maybe it is the T6?
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Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2020, 09:23 AM
soccer4m soccer4m is offline
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Allright, an Oil Thread!!

On Synthetic, tried it and clutch immediately slipped in the xs and xj,,,,,so went back to Walmart 10/40 or 20/50 in the summer and has been fine. Xj pushing 150k, the xs over 50k and no wear problems to date,,,,,so dino is fine. Seems like clutch discs wear pretty slow,,,,like Greg, I replaced the springs as they were pretty compressed. Also have run the 10/40 Walmart supertech in all my latest Toyota minivans,,,,last one, the Previa, had over 500k, engine still ran like a top, wife made me sell it as it was pretty beatup from ranch and surfing use,,,,current Sienna has 315k,,,,still runs strong, wifes car, Acura rdx, requires 0/20 synthetic so that is what goes in it. Regular oil and filter changes are the key for long life,,,,Ride On,,,,,,,,Mike in Sun DIego, currently locked down due to this way over rated flu virus
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2020, 07:07 PM
steve scott steve scott is offline
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Thumbs up Stay original

Iím with you Greg, these bikes are like tanks. Just good Dino oil and they will carry you anywhere.
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  #8  
Old 04-09-2020, 03:16 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Totally agree with Greg pertaining to the engine oil. 20-50w dino(Valvoline) has worked just fine in my Venturer for 39yrs. Even has worked just fine at the drag strip with speed shifts and 12.50e.t. at 104m.p.h. some 12yrs. back.
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Last edited by motoman; 04-09-2020 at 03:22 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-09-2020, 06:20 PM
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Whatever is on sale at Wally-World from squeezed and cracked paraffin candle wax drippings to mighty-fine molecular synthetics.

Synthetic has never given me any problems at all, it just worked but it's way too expensive for the short oil change intervals.

If I'm going to be somewhere that I'll be doing a lot of very cold engine starts in the morning or long rides in the desert at max weight then I put in some synthetic, then change it back over to the usual retextured herring substitute afterward.
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1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk"
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  #10  
Old 04-12-2020, 01:09 AM
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Rasputin Rasputin is offline
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I agree with Greg. Dino oil all the way. Never had an issue (oil caused) and that is what was recommended when these were built.
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  #11  
Old 04-12-2020, 07:05 AM
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Dang guys, somebody should have invited me to the party.

I ran synthetic in my SG a number of times and never had an issue. I run it in my ZRX 1200 because shift quality falls off with dino oil much sooner and therefore I recover the savings in longer oil change intervals. As well it doesn't put as much waste oil back into the system through recycling it.

What is the difference in the clutch plate composition now? What material are they using that resists slipping in every modern bike? Or how it works so well in my SG the few times I ran it? Did mine get sprinkled with pixie dust? Does Scott's get sprinkled with pixie dust? How about jetmechmarty?

What I am hearing is clutches with a hundred thousand miles on them somehow are in as good a shape as a brand new clutch and I just can't believe that. New Springs don't make up for worn plates. I love you guys, but the age of the clutch plates regardless of springs is absolutely at play here. Put new plates in with those new springs and it won't slip will synthetic oil.

But why go do that? Like Scott has said and I believe fully, you're going to change the oil every 2,500 miles so synthetic make zero sense regardless of how well the clutch does or doesn't perform.

I put together a group purchase from Webcam for them to make the ZZR 1200 cam profile onto pitted ZRX 1200 and ZZR 1200 cam cores. There's an issue with pitting and guys are just taking the old cores they've already replaced and having spare cams made. Got 10 guys to do it on the ZRX forum a couple of years ago. Webcam absolutely recommends running conventional oil with a good zinc content and changing it every 3000 miles. Fresh oil with a good additive package is better than old oil with a good additive package.

Probably part of why the xs1100 is are so bomb-proof. The oil change interval is short enough that there's always relatively fresh oil running through its veins.
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Ď01 ZRX 1200, only bike in the garage.

2020 Rally Link:
http://www.appleattic.net/XS2020/xs2020.html
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  #12  
Old 04-12-2020, 10:26 AM
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3Phase 3Phase is offline
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Some oils last a little longer, some less. I change the oil whenever my left foot tells me the shifting is getting rough and notchy because that means the oil isn't lubricating the engine and transmission.

I destroyed a fresh batch of Mobile 1 20W-50 motorcycle synthetic oil in about 300 miles with a high speed run from Yuma, AZ to Lost Wages, NV at 110F/42C and I was not happy about that.

I've also had some SuperTech 15W-40 dino juice last almost 3,500 miles of mostly laid back, low speed and freeway riding and I changed it because I was getting scared by the number of miles, not because it was bad.
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1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk"
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:03 AM
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Bonz Bonz is offline
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Your bike pummelled that M1 20w50 V-Twin oil. I ran it 5,086 miles in the ZRX last summer followed with a Blackstone analysis. Stayed in the middle of grade for a 20w50 (no shear which is your shift quality indicator) and had a TBN (total base number, indicative of remaining additive package) of 6.4 (very strong, as 1.0 or less it's time for a change regardless). Ran M1 10w40 4T for 4,680 miles the oil change interval before that and had similar stellar results with respect to what a 10w40 oil should do and how it should hold up against shear.

Switched back to M1 10w40 4T this current oil change. It will be what I have in the crankcase come the Rally.

I totally realize a liquid cooled engine vs an air cooled lump are different beasts altogether. Just goes to show how heat and contamination contribute to an oils demise as much or more as shearing by the gears in the transmission.
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Ď01 ZRX 1200, only bike in the garage.

2020 Rally Link:
http://www.appleattic.net/XS2020/xs2020.html
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  #14  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:19 AM
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3Phase 3Phase is offline
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Indubitably.

To mix a couple of metaphors: I took that expensive V-Twin synthetic oil out behind the woodshed and beat it like a redheaded step-child.
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-- Scott
_____

1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk"
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2020, 12:08 PM
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Bonz Bonz is offline
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So what were your speeds on that run? Or more importantly what was your sustained RPM? I'm just curious out of curiosity sake because that's the kind of thing I'm always curious about, curiously.

A hanging RPM that doesn't come down kills an engine and its oil for sure. That's in a sense like doing a 300 mile Daytona 200 with your XS1100.
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Ď01 ZRX 1200, only bike in the garage.

2020 Rally Link:
http://www.appleattic.net/XS2020/xs2020.html
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