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  #16  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:38 PM
baltimorenick baltimorenick is offline
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There is an excellent write up of the procedure here. Investigating the wires won't mess them up if they aren't actually broken already. I found it necessary to remove the timing plate and coils to do repair the wires correctly. Make sure you set the pickup coil gap back when you put it all back together. The four wires eventually go to the 4 pin connector on the TCI. Check each coil for continuity/resistance afterwards. You should see something like 600-800 ohms.

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...pictorial.html
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Last edited by baltimorenick; 04-29-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
How did you fix the pickup wires? I had a problem last summer with intermittant stumbling and have been advised to check the wires. I opened the cover and the wires look good. I would hate to destroy the wires checking them only to find out that they are still good.
If you destroy the wires then they are bad before you start.
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  #18  
Old 04-29-2013, 03:36 PM
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The process doesn't look that bad and I may as well change all the wires out as a preventative measure.
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  #19  
Old 04-29-2013, 04:19 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
The process doesn't look that bad and I may as well change all the wires out as a preventative measure.
Not necessary, just pull on each wire, using both hands every inch. Also make sure advance plate rotates freely back and forth.
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:37 PM
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You mean pull on each wire every cm or so and feel for breaks? If I feel a break change it out?
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  #21  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:39 PM
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Not change it out. Usually solder in a new 1/2" piece from some super lexible wires like off an ohmmeter.

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  #22  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:48 PM
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Okay - found the culprit. The orange wire was broken. Feel pretty stupid right now. The other wires are fine. Simple solder fix and electronics is something I have done allot of - thanks!
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  #23  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:49 PM
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Ok who gets to say I told you so....
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  #24  
Old 04-29-2013, 10:13 PM
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Kind of bizarre that only one would go. Maybe the orange one was slightly shorter and extended out while the others were slack.

I found some 18 gauge silicone wire from a model supply place in Sask and it is perfect for this application. Guess they use it on model planes.

That orange wire made my night!
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  #25  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:15 AM
motoman motoman is offline
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Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
Okay - found the culprit. The orange wire was broken. Feel pretty stupid right now. The other wires are fine. Simple solder fix and electronics is something I have done allot of - thanks!
Glad to hear you double checked those wires! Soldering will work, but a seemingly more permanent fix(at least for me) was use the metal piece of a butt connector, slip a tiny piece of shrink tubing over wire first, then with a good quality crimper crimp the wires and slip the tiny piece of shrink tubing over it and heat to shrink. Soldering seems to weaken the wire ends and can cause a break from the flexing of them.
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  #26  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post
Glad to hear you double checked those wires! Soldering will work, but a seemingly more permanent fix(at least for me) was use the metal piece of a butt connector, slip a tiny piece of shrink tubing over wire first, then with a good quality crimper crimp the wires and slip the tiny piece of shrink tubing over it and heat to shrink. Soldering seems to weaken the wire ends and can cause a break from the flexing of them.
+1 on that.
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  #27  
Old 04-30-2013, 12:39 PM
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Certainly easier than soldering as long as I can get the the crimper down there. I will look for non insulated butt connectors. This looks like a great butt connection solution:
www.spliseal.com
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  #28  
Old 04-30-2013, 01:15 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
This looks like a great butt connection solution:
www.spliseal.com
That's an intriguing product.... Probably overkill for the pick-up coil repair. I wonder how well that terminal mold works?
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'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...

Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
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  #29  
Old 04-30-2013, 03:26 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
Certainly easier than soldering as long as I can get the the crimper down there. I will look for non insulated butt connectors. This looks like a great butt connection solution:
www.spliseal.com
Interesting product, but too bulky to fit in there and allow wire movement AND free movement of the advance mechanism. This is a case of 'smaller is better'.
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  #30  
Old 04-30-2013, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmatches1 View Post
Certainly easier than soldering as long as I can get the the crimper down there. I will look for non insulated butt connectors.
You can always remove the head unit on the pick up coil and have extra room for crimpers that way. I forget the proper clearance to install them at right now but the manual you downloaded should tell you. If not these guys will know or you can do a search. 0.7mm rings a bell but I am not sure.
As for the non insulated connector all you need to do is cut the plastic off of any crimp type connector, slip on a short piece of shrink tube, splice, crimp, and heat to shrink.
I have yet to test the connectors I showed you to see if they will stand up but soon I will be able to. Good luck with your fix.
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