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Old 12-15-2009, 03:20 PM
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Wing^Nut Wing^Nut is offline
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Oh Snap-transmission

Hi fellas, Thx for all the good info at xs11.com. Just finishing up on the second gear repair and while torging down on the clutch basket big nut I heard a snap or pop on the left side of the case. Any ideas where I should start looking for what broke and need to replace or fix Thx

Last edited by Wing^Nut; 12-15-2009 at 03:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2009, 03:30 PM
Crazcnuk Crazcnuk is offline
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Take the basket back out and check the gear right behind the clutch. It probably wasn't meshed correctly.
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Old 12-15-2009, 03:34 PM
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Sounds like Cnuk said, you did not have the gears meshed correctly before tightening the bolt. One of the gears it has to mesh with is the oil pump drive gear which is attached to the shift fork shaft. Which you already know about since you pulled it out in the process of your repair. Check both ends of it for all the c-clips to be in place.
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Old 12-15-2009, 03:44 PM
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Thx Fellas, I'll double check that. Whats odd to me thought is the snap came from the other side of the case. While torging the big nut it was in gear unknown which one and I used the rear brake to lock the wheel.
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Old 12-15-2009, 03:51 PM
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CatatonicBug CatatonicBug is offline
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The tranny should be in 4th gear through the whole repair process. If you use an air impact, it works great to remove or tighten that nut. However, you do have to be careful that everythig is lined up properly beforehand.
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Old 12-15-2009, 04:28 PM
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I went threw the gears to check the operation before buttoning up the pump & pan and dont know which one I left it in and didnt thnk it mattered at that point until snaaap, But I'll recheck the clutch baskt & pump gear mesh. Thx boys
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2009, 05:38 PM
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cywelchjr cywelchjr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatatonicBug View Post
The tranny should be in 4th gear through the whole repair process. If you use an air impact, it works great to remove or tighten that nut. However, you do have to be careful that everythig is lined up properly beforehand.
Yep, make sure everything moves back and forth with the clutch basket (you don't get much movement, but I got enough to be able to tell all the gears were engaged, and the one for the oil pump does want to not engage if your not careful. I did use the impact for taking it off and putting it back, because doing it myself and on the sidestand I didn't have any way to hold it for the torque wrench. Once I got it all assembled correctly it's been working just great. I'm thinking about new frictions and springs as I understand that with some of the more advanced stuff I can use full synthetic oil without slippage, and I KNOW that the synth stuff reduces wear, heat and makes things live longer, and I want mine to last as long as I can make it last.
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:26 PM
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Maybe it is just me, but over the decades I have learned to hate folks that use impact guns to put bolts on. Maybe I own the cheaper version of the tools, but I have no air tools that indicate a torque setting. I have had WAY TO MANY wheel lug nuts stripped out form idiots hitting them with the impact gun until the air compressor gives out to.

IMHO, impact guns are for taking nuts and bolts off, and quickly threading them back up. I will onyl trust my arms and my torque wrench to tighten a bolt appropriately.

IT will not make any different which gear it is in when you get that far into the repair. The fourth gear issue is based upon getting the shift forks and the gears in and out. I have pulled the clutch off the bike several times and I am sure it was only in fourth when doing the gear repair. The rear brake on mine has always held the wheel and the bike perfectly still while I put 51 ft lbs on that bolt tightening or loosening.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGXSER View Post
Maybe it is just me, but over the decades I have learned to hate folks that use impact guns to put bolts on. Maybe I own the cheaper version of the tools, but I have no air tools that indicate a torque setting. I have had WAY TO MANY wheel lug nuts stripped out form idiots hitting them with the impact gun until the air compressor gives out to.

IMHO, impact guns are for taking nuts and bolts off, and quickly threading them back up. I will onyl trust my arms and my torque wrench to tighten a bolt appropriately.

IT will not make any different which gear it is in when you get that far into the repair. The fourth gear issue is based upon getting the shift forks and the gears in and out. I have pulled the clutch off the bike several times and I am sure it was only in fourth when doing the gear repair. The rear brake on mine has always held the wheel and the bike perfectly still while I put 51 ft lbs on that bolt tightening or loosening.
With the exception of this one nut, I agree 100%. Fact was I needed to get it on there firmly and I could NOT hold the brake on while using the torque wrench on it (take both hands for the wrench, I'm not limber enough to twist around far enough to put my foot on the brake at the same time). I wish I could have done differently, and the two times before (when I put the clutch together wrong) I had my daughter available to help and she held the brake for me, but she was away when I finally found the problem, so I had to do it solo. When I open it up again, I will pull the clutch apart at be replacing at least the springs, and at the same time I will have a helper at that point so I can torque it at the same time.

That said, I'm still not convinced this is the engine I want to keep in there anyways, so as soon as I can get a bench setup to work on I'm going to rebuild the original engine (including the gears etc) from the ground up, and it's going to go back in. At that point everything will be done either by the book, or in cases where there are better ways known, the better way, and I plan on putting a venturer cam chain adjuster on it in the process. I plan on passing this one down to my son when I can't ride anymore (of course I plan on riding till I catch up with fredintoon, or at least till the age he quits riding . If I have to, I'll even put a sidecar on it to keep me able to ride.
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1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks

I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:58 PM
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Understand about not being as limber as you once was. I have always pt my right knee on the brake pedal and use my arms to tighten with my 1/2" drive torque wrench which has a handle that is easily 18" long on it.
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2009, 07:21 AM
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I just shoved a stick in the spokes, up against the swingarm.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
I just shoved a stick in the spokes, up against the swingarm.

Makes for a short test run when you forget it there. Probably about as effective as somebody at a rally forgetting about their disc lock and trying to rip off out of the parking lot. Yeah.. still chuckle about that one.


Tod
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2009, 10:39 AM
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Makes for a short test run when you forget it there. Probably about as effective as somebody at a rally forgetting about their disc lock and trying to rip off out of the parking lot. Yeah.. still chuckle about that one.


Tod
Yeah, that was special. Especially the tizzy fit thrown immediately after.

I also use a piece of wood in the rear wheel to torque the clutch nut.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2009, 03:23 PM
parrot820 parrot820 is offline
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For those of us with the engine completely out of the bike with nary a wheel or a rear brake to help keep things still, how is this procedure done?


I'm hoping to pull the clutch basket tonight, then flip the engine over and pull the pan, and so I'm assuming I'll have to figure it out one way or the other.

Actually, before I pull the clutch, how can I tell what gear I'm in? I can re-attach the shift lever, but have no clutch. Do I just push down to first so I know where I'm starting and then up to fourth with only the shift lever available?

Looking ahead, should I just leave the clutch off until engine is back in the frame and I have the benefit of a rear wheel to help torque down the clutch bolt?

Things I should have thought about before completely disassembling the bike.

ps: I hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'll start a new one if I'm being inappropriate, but this seemed a good place to ask....
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbig View Post
Makes for a short test run when you forget it there. Probably about as effective as somebody at a rally forgetting about their disc lock and trying to rip off out of the parking lot. Yeah.. still chuckle about that one.


Tod
I would love to see a video of that!!
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