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  #31  
Old 10-28-2008, 10:56 AM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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I had another question? does polarity on the primary side of the coil matter? I just though about it and of the 3 wires running to the coils which ones are positive and which ones are negative, or ground? i was thinking if the primary wires were placed on the coils incorrectly then the coils wouldnt fire anyways because the secondary side would find a way to ground instead of through the electrode tip then to ground.
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  #32  
Old 10-28-2008, 01:53 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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Red/Wht= +
Org/Gry= -
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79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (168K miles)
79SF - every day rider, solo seat mod, Brembo 16MM M/C, Accel 3Ω's, Supertrapp (125K miles)

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  #33  
Old 10-28-2008, 07:32 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey again,

I didn't check out the Ebay link, but if they are asking around $50.00 for a USED ONE, then don't bother, get one from GEEZER, see the STICKY thread in the PARTS for SALE FORUM, is way better than the OEM, plug and play and Lifetime...Geezer's ....not your bike .....warranty! More robust compenents than the OEM as well!
T.C.

3 wires from the COILS?? Should only have 2, like Phil said, red/white=Pos, Grey or Orange is the Negative Trigger wire for the TCI.
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  #34  
Old 10-28-2008, 08:45 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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well i meant there is one common negative wire I believe, and there is one seperate positive wire to each positive side of the coil. 2 coils, 1 common wire and 2 positive wires. so there is a grey wire and a red and white wire on one coil, and on the other coil and orange wire and a red and white wire. but doesnt the polarity of the coil matter?? i just looked at the coils and i see no markings to tell which post on the primary side of the coil is positive or negative. theoretically...the primary coil will create a magnetic field and then the primary magnetic field collapses it creates a magnetic flux. The secondary coil then creates a magnetic field in the opposite direction to oppose the magnetic flux. now that means that the way the current is applied to the primary side of the coil matters becasue if it is applied opposite what it should, then the spark will be sent straight to ground...sorry had to go through that. im finally able to apply physics 2 in the real world...
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  #35  
Old 10-28-2008, 09:30 PM
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3Phase 3Phase is offline
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Legend, you have it reversed. There is one hot wire and two separate grounds.

The Red/White wire goes to Positive side of the two coils.

The Orange and Gray wires come from the Negative sides of the two coils and the ignition makes or breaks each ground for each coil separately.


Regards,

Scott
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1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
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  #36  
Old 10-28-2008, 09:38 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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ohhhh ok i see now, that would still work. so it doesnt send a positive charge, it just opens the ground to let current flow. I gotcha, thanks!!
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It seemed like a good idea at the time....

1991 Honda Nighthawk CB750...R.I.P.
Awesome...

1978 Yamaha XS1100e Purple People Eater
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  #37  
Old 10-29-2008, 10:13 PM
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Rasputin Rasputin is offline
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Accel coil instructions.

Here is all of the instructions that came with my coils. It does state the polarity of the two primary terminals is not important. One coil tower fires positive and the other coil tower fires negative and it does not matter which one fires negative or positive. Hope something here will help with your coil issues






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  #38  
Old 11-16-2008, 06:07 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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OK, so i got a reg/rect that is brand new and it still wont charge. So i figured I'll force it to charge. I took a jumper wire and grounded the green wire and it didnt do anything to the 12.2V voltage output at the battery, then i disconnected the field coil all together and attached it to a lawn mower battery, then i measured 11.6V at the battery. I'm starting to suspicion that the field coil has gone bad or there is a bad connection somewhere, but i cleaned all the connectors up about 2 weeks ago. Also, it will rev higher now, before it felt like it had a rev limiter at 4K rpm, but now it will rev to maybe 6K or 7K rpm and even riding it will rev higher if i give it time. Before it wouldn't even try to go over 4K RPM...also I hooked a voltmeter up on the primary side of the coil while it was running and i only get about 3V...I know that is low...any ideas ??
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It seemed like a good idea at the time....

1991 Honda Nighthawk CB750...R.I.P.
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  #39  
Old 11-16-2008, 06:29 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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field coil test

Brown to green value should be 3.5 ohms + or - 10% at 68 degrees F.
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79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (168K miles)
79SF - every day rider, solo seat mod, Brembo 16MM M/C, Accel 3Ω's, Supertrapp (125K miles)

"If it ain't broke, modify it"

30 year XS11 owner

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  #40  
Old 11-17-2008, 11:12 AM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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field coil checks out...could it be the rotor, could the rotor have become de magnetized???
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It seemed like a good idea at the time....

1991 Honda Nighthawk CB750...R.I.P.
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1978 Yamaha XS1100e Purple People Eater
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  #41  
Old 11-17-2008, 04:09 PM
tarzan tarzan is offline
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Have you followed the white wires from behind the fuse box all the way down to the coils?You may be shorted somewhere between there.I worked on one that did had melted to the exhaust and I couldnt see it till I physically followed it down there.You could also just have a break inside a wire.From what I understand the rotor or stator hardly ever go bad.
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  #42  
Old 11-17-2008, 05:07 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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From what I haven't seen on this forum I can tell the alternator assembly rarely goes bad. I will go over all, I mean all the wires, that have anything to do with that charging system. I have a buddy with a '78 XS750 and I have been comparing part numbers between the 2 bikes and I believe that the rotors are the same. He has a couple spare engines...haha...and he is going to pull the rotors off them, because we know one of them had a working charging system. Does any body know where I can get brand new connectors for the stator plug, like the 2 plastic parts, male and female spade connectors???
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It seemed like a good idea at the time....

1991 Honda Nighthawk CB750...R.I.P.
Awesome...

1978 Yamaha XS1100e Purple People Eater
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  #43  
Old 11-17-2008, 06:24 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey Legend,

The ROTORS are NOT magnetic, they simply break up the magnetic fields between the stator and field coils to create the AC pulses!!

[quote]
MikesXS.com has:
Coupler Set
Coupler Set with Terminals - 2 space (side by side) - Large Flat Spade type


Part #12-0631 $3.50 USD EA.[quote]
T.C.
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  #44  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:24 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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ohhh thanks for the info, i really thought the rotor was magnetized. etiher way the rotor will still create a magnetic flux which will induce current in the stator, ok so ive eliminated any of the parts of the charging system being at fault. now just the wires and connections remain. so the regulator is getting 11.9v between the brown wire and ground. so when the bike is started the regulator should still be getting the same voltage right? and if it is getting the same voltage it should be energizing the field coil right? I looked in the headlight bucket and I was looking at the connectors and I had a sneaky suspicion that they connector may be shorting the 3 wires. The wires are melted with alot of wiring exposed and it is corroded. Could this be the source of the problem? could the corrosion short the wires between each other??
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It seemed like a good idea at the time....

1991 Honda Nighthawk CB750...R.I.P.
Awesome...

1978 Yamaha XS1100e Purple People Eater
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  #45  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:26 PM
LegendJet LegendJet is offline
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ohh the 3 wires that are melted and connector is corroded is the main key switch wires and connector. 4got to mention that
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Awesome...

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