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  #16  
Old 11-29-2019, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post
Also, suggest removing shift cover and check alignment marks of shift pawl assembly with tranny in second gear.
Another thing that seems like a good idea, Thanks, Done
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2019, 03:29 AM
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lubing clutch cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmechmarty View Post
UD, mine shifts like butter.
Another thing I forgot ?
Lubing the clutch cable (along with adjustment) with Tri Flow or Super Lube is also a good idea (both contain PTFE) experience it, amazing what a free moving clutch cable will improve.
I've not done anything yet temps are not cooperating .
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  #18  
Old 12-18-2019, 08:27 AM
DeanR DeanR is offline
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I've never understood this term 'false neutral' that people seem to use.

Does it not simply mean that you did a sloppy/lazy shift and missed the gear? Our fault, not the bikes fault.
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2019, 10:54 AM
MaximPhil MaximPhil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanR View Post
I've never understood this term 'false neutral' that people seem to use.

Does it not simply mean that you did a sloppy/lazy shift and missed the gear? Our fault, not the bikes fault.
Hi Dean,
Finding a false neutral describes the riders action not the bikes however some bikes have wear and adjustment issues that makes False Neutral easier to find. On Addie I find the transmission shifts much better with fresh oil and once it nears time for an oil change shifting gears becomes more difficult and false neutrals show up.

Phil
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2019, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanR View Post
I've never understood this term 'false neutral' that people seem to use.

Does it not simply mean that you did a sloppy/lazy shift and missed the gear? Our fault, not the bikes fault.
Neutral is between 1st and 2nd. We shift 1st to 2nd without stopping at neutral all the time. Get lazy and sometimes find neutral. This can also happen between 3rd and 4th (or was it 4th and 5th). There isn't supposed to be a neutral selection there, so we call it false. And yes, you are correct. We missed the gear.
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  #21  
Old 12-18-2019, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmechmarty View Post
Neutral is between 1st and 2nd. We shift 1st to 2nd without stopping at neutral all the time. Get lazy and sometimes find neutral. This can also happen between 3rd and 4th (or was it 4th and 5th). There isn't supposed to be a neutral selection there, so we call it false. And yes, you are correct. We missed the gear.
What he said, exactly. For me, during normal riding, I get used to a certain amount of force and distance for each shift, and they all feel pretty much the same. During aggressive acceleration, however, I've found that I need to be firmer in the amount of force applied during the 3-4 shift, or the result of my inattention is a severe lack of forward velocity and higher engine rpm's than I care for my engine to endure without load. It does seem weird that so many other people have the same problem with the exact same gears, as I've never had this problem with any other upshift. Engineering flaw? Parts wear? Maybe, but in the end I'm still the one who's doing the shifting, and it falls on me to make sure each gear is positively engaged. My take on it, anyways.

Regards
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2019, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanR View Post
I've never understood this term 'false neutral' that people seem to use.

Does it not simply mean that you did a sloppy/lazy shift and missed the gear? Our fault, not the bikes fault.
hey Dean..I had a few false neutrals on my '95 ST1100...every now and then..between 2nd and 3rd gears....stuff happens...
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  #23  
Old 01-02-2020, 09:36 PM
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donebysunday donebysunday is offline
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Brain farts

Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post
Also, suggest removing shift cover and check alignment marks of shift pawl assembly with tranny in second gear.
I checked the shift pawl, star, pins (dowels) all seems like new and lined up, GREAT !

A couple problems;
Most of the shift cover gasket is stuck to the engine. How to get in those tight spots in order to get the old gasket off (seems like it's cemented on) ?
Do I make a half dozen or so scraper tools to get the gasket off in the tight spots ? ? ?

The other thing is the cover will no longer bolt snug to the engine.
I've done this before but the old brain is not remembering ? ? ?
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  #24  
Old 01-03-2020, 12:26 AM
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I would use some foaming gasket remover to ease the scraping procedure. As for the cover not seating, check that that the shifter mechanism that passes through the cover is installed properly. You could try temporarily installing the cover without the shifter shaft to determine if that is the problem.
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  #25  
Old 01-03-2020, 12:59 AM
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donebysunday donebysunday is offline
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Gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerphil View Post
I would use some foaming gasket remover to ease the scraping procedure. As for the cover not seating, check that that the shifter mechanism that passes through the cover is installed properly. You could try temporarily installing the cover without the shifter shaft to determine if that is the problem.
In the past I tried some gasket remover, did nothing. May another brand be better, recommendations ? Still getting in those tight spots will be a treat/trick, think I'll need to make wood chisels ?

If I remember right the shifter can just be pulled out then just deal with the shifter return spring to get it back in right.
Might be that's why the cover is not seating, the spring, though it looks OK may be out of place ?
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  #26  
Old 01-03-2020, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donebysunday View Post
In the past I tried some gasket remover, did nothing. May another brand be better, recommendations ? Still getting in those tight spots will be a treat/trick, think I'll need to make wood chisels ?
UD,
Try this Blue Point scraper. The Snap-On truck will have it.


Paint stripper may get the remaining gasket off.
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  #27  
Old 01-03-2020, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmechmarty View Post
UD,
Try this Blue Point scraper. The Snap-On truck will have it.


Paint stripper may get the remaining gasket off.
Looks a bit thick in the handle where the blade is, maybe too thick to get into those tight spots ?
Knowing a little about snap-on prices that thing is prolly $30.
Taking off the exhaust on that side will help with one small area.
Heck, I'll take the entire exhaust off for cleaning, might as well.
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80 XS 1100 SG
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  #28  
Old 01-04-2020, 12:18 AM
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You can use sand paper to remove the gasket, just don't be too aggressive. Try not to get any crap in the engine.
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  #29  
Old 01-04-2020, 08:21 AM
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As long as the residual gasket is thin, I would think that you could forget about depending on a new gasket to seal it. Instead use a bead of RTV Ultra black.
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  #30  
Old 01-04-2020, 12:20 PM
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donebysunday donebysunday is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skids View Post
As long as the residual gasket is thin, I would think that you could forget about depending on a new gasket to seal it. Instead use a bead of RTV Ultra black.
I have that on hand as well as the grey. I think the grey withstands higher temps, let me see here, both say oil resistant, the ultra black says maximum oil resistance (no temp mentioned), the mega grey says good for 650F .
So now is it 650F or max oil resistance that I want.
No way the engine gets to 650F but the exhaust pipe runs within an inch of the bottom of the shifter cover.
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80 XS650 G Special II
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80 XS 1100 SG
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