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  #1  
Old 04-21-2012, 08:20 PM
BobBaldy BobBaldy is offline
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Banjo Bolts and Anti-sieze

I just recieved new Galfer S/S brake lines (ordered from Pashnit) and the kit came with stainless banjo bolts. I hear stainless bolts should always use anti-sieze. I'm thinking that if I'm real careful and apply it sparingly to the threads only I shouldn't have a problem with contamination in the braking system.

Am I being overly cautious? Should I skip the anti-sieze?
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2012, 08:24 PM
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petejw petejw is offline
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hi bob,
personally i wouldnt worry about using anti-seize.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2012, 08:29 PM
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The aniti sieze is completely unnecessary. I wouldn't take the chance because the threads will be exposed to brake fluid anyway. It wont be a problem.
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  #4  
Old 04-22-2012, 06:26 PM
BobBaldy BobBaldy is offline
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Thanks guys. I didn't think it was nessacary. I'd rather ask a question than kick myself later.
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It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues. -Abraham Lincoln

http://80xselevenrebuild.blogspot.com/
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  #5  
Old 04-22-2012, 07:04 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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I'm gonna disagree with the no anti-seize recommendation...

Any time you thread stainless steel into aluminum you should use anti-seize unless it's somewhere that's exposed to hot oil. I'd especially put it on a banjo bolt as brake fluid attracts water and it settles to the lowest point (the caliper) so the potential for corrosion is high. This would outweigh any concern about possible contamination. If you apply it to the bolt, very little if any is going to get into the caliper.

C'mon guys, how many times have you pulled a banjo off and found it all rusty on the end? I know I've seen more than a few...
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:13 PM
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The brake fluid will keep thing good Steve. I am in the brake speciallity field of repair and one thing I have NEVER seen is a frozen banjo bolt. I have however seen multiple cases of brake hydraulic system contamination due to even SMALL amounts of petroleum based products, such as anti sieze. It is completely unnecessary on a banjo bolt.

A bleeder screw is another story, the threads aren't exposed to brake fluid and seize up quite often. Anti seize would do well there.

BTW, brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water.
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80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs,Mac 4 into 2 exhaust,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter V fairing, aftermarket small hard bags, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.


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  #7  
Old 04-22-2012, 07:21 PM
BobBaldy BobBaldy is offline
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I've got some speed bleeders coming (the originals might need vise grips to get them off they're so rounded) I'll use it on them but not the banjos.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2012, 09:16 PM
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petejw petejw is offline
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+1 on what greg says.
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new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa


former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8d..._order&list=UL
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:27 AM
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fredintoon fredintoon is offline
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It takes two

same series stainless washed off with acetone before assembly, the threads gall so quick you can't tighten the nut.
Different series (say, 300 to 400), not so bad but still dodgy.
Any kind of lube, they'll tighten at least but might gall in service.
Stainless into aluminum lubed with brake fluid will be just fine.
Stainless into aluminum lubed with anti-seize compound has an unacceptably high risk of brake fluid contamination.
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2012, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBaldy View Post
I've got some speed bleeders coming (the originals might need vise grips to get them off they're so rounded) I'll use it on them but not the banjos.
Hey Bob,

PB Blaster and several applications of a heat gun will help break the corrosion loose on those bleeders, and I've seen them break OFF ! You might want to take your dremel or file and try to dress up the sides/edges so that a 6 point socket/ box end wrench will fit it!

I've seen rust around the threads on many banjo bolts myself, but I've been able to break them loose and get them off relatively easily otherwise. I, too, was concerned about the antiseize contamination of the fluid since the bolt is hollow and has side ports.

T.C.
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  #11  
Old 04-23-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBaldy View Post
I've got some speed bleeders coming (the originals might need vise grips to get them off they're so rounded) I'll use it on them but not the banjos.
Bob, a good way to get those rounded bleeders out if all else fails is remove the caliper and clamp the bleeder itself in the vise and turn the caliper to break it loose. You don't have a lot of room to work with but it's enough to loosen it and then just a pair of pliers will unscrew it.
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80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs,Mac 4 into 2 exhaust,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter V fairing, aftermarket small hard bags, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.


http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...70019212_n.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...ragon92912.jpg
God Bless America


Visit XS11.org too......
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2012, 08:03 PM
BobBaldy BobBaldy is offline
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Topcat- I've got the PB Blaster and a heat gun. I was thinking along the same lines.

BA80- There's a vise mounted on the bumper of a truck here at work. I'll keep your suggestion in mind if I start cussing too much at home.

I got the speed bleeders today. They are stainless with antisieze/sealer on the threads and came with caps. $26 with shipping. Twice what I'd like to pay but I've wanted to try these since I heard about them years ago. I'll do a product eval in a few weeks when I put the brakes together. I'm waiting on a custom line for the rear to start.
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80 G, Spaghetti pipes, K&N in stock airbox, Galfer S/S lines.

It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues. -Abraham Lincoln

http://80xselevenrebuild.blogspot.com/
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