The topic come up every year about this time.
Better to do it now than to learn what you *should have* done next spring.
The following list applies only for "Winter" storage. For multi-year
storage, more must be done.
- Wash & wax it. (Makes you more likely to want to ride it later though
that usually isn't a problem.....:-)
- Run it around enough to get it hot. This burns off the wash water and
will warm up the motor oil nicely. Going to the gas station for a fillup
across town should do. Fill the gas tank with highest quality gas you
can find.
Return to storage/work site.
(Try to store it indoors. Outdoor storage is the pits. Rent a U-Store-It
if necessary. If outside is unavoidable, use a breathable cover vs.
plastic or vinyl. )
- Shutoff the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carb bowls.
(there are usually drain screws.)
I usually just top off the tank and drain the carbs. No fussing with
tank contents. (I've given myself trouble from that.)
This is the single most important step in the whole list! This
determines whether the bike will start next time or not.
Clean motor oil doesn't matter if the damn thing can't be made
to run!
Additionally you can:
Add STABIL gasoline stabilizer to the tank if you wish.
**OR** Drain the tank completely, then add some light oil and slosh it
all round the inside to coat the inner wall of the tank to prevent rust
(gotta remove the tank to do this.)
- If you have a fuel-injected bike, you're on your own!!!
- A word about petcocks- There seem to be two basic types: the
traditional ON/OFF/RES type and the vacuum actuated types where
the petcock is off only by the balance of a vacuum diaphragm and
spring arrangement. Vacuum petcocks are a potential source of ON
even if they aren't supposed to be. A little bit of leakage past
these guys can gunk your carbs pretty badly. If I were the owner
of such a petcock(attached to a motorcycle) , I'd disconnect the
fuel line from the carbs and add a long length of plugged line from
the petcock and route it up to the area of the mirrors and secure
the line in place. (note that hose end is not below tank level in
event of problem) OR you could completely drain the tank.
Your choice.
Even older manual petcocks can leak. My XT350 started
demonstrating leakage this Fall. The workaround is to
disconnect the line to the carb (plug with a golf tee) and
add a new line going up toward the handlebars (also
plugged). This will let the leakage go to a harmless holding
tube. A clear tube will let you see the amount of leakage
but may not be safe in the long term. Clear plastic tubing
may not be usable in gasoline.
- Change the oil and filter while warm.
(Used oil has some acids formed in it. Water too.
Fresh oil good. Used oil bad.)
- Put a teaspoon or so of 2-stroke oil (or Marvel Mystery Oil
(note 1) in each cylinder via the sparkplug
hole. (Clean the area around the plug of grit/sand/mung before
opening the hole. I usually use Simple Green or GUNK on the spark
plugs with the wires removed and heavy rinse during the wash to
clean this stuff up. Some folks use compressed air. Be careful,
a piece of sand under a valve could cause it to burn later.)
I use a section of clear aquarium tubing to suck up some oil from
the container and then blow it into the cylinder. Yes, by mouth.
(don't pull the oil very far up the tubing!)
Marvel Oil tastes much better than 2 stroke oil. Wintergreen, yum!
Turn the engine over a couple of times to distribute the oil
inside the engine cylinder. (Works better when plugs are out and
this step goes before removing battery)
Reinstall plugs loosely. Leave plug wires routed loosely.
(You should consider having new plugs available for next year.)
- Remove the battery to a place where you will remember to
trickle-charge it at least monthly. (recording when you've
charged it on a piece of paper near the battery will help you
remember how neglectful you're being :-)
Even if you don't care about the battery, remove it. If it
freezes (32F, 0C) while the battery is discharged, the case will
crack and spill acid on your frame.
- Inflate the tires about 5 psi over spec **OR** better yet, block
the bike up so there is no weight on the wheels.
- Change the brake fluid. It's easy and can prevent corrosion which
could result in sticking/dragging brakes later. (This should be
an annual event regardless of storage.)
- Wipe down the fork legs with Marvel oil and leave enough to
keep the fork seals moist.
- Lube the suspension (if grease fittings)
- Do other lube jobs if you are so inclined. (cables, pivots, etc)
- Put some kind of note to yourself on speedo that says:
Battery Removed
Spark Plugs
Tire pressure
to remind yourself what you'll need to do to go riding.
- While bike is in storage, try to operate controls occasionally.
(Clutch, brakes) If bike has weight on tires, try to roll the bike
to a different tire position occasionally.
I've had good luck storing bikes and cars for up to 7 months at a time
with these methods. (US Navy deployments and winter storage of bikes
here in Colorado).