Need a tach for a Special

[neil_x]

Hey guyz ...

I'm looking for a working tach for my 81 Special. I am especially saddened because my existing tach has a pristine faceplate ... by pristine, I mean that the redline area is actually red -- not sun-bleached. If I understand other posts correctly, Special tachometers are sealed units, so there's no way to swap internal parts. I'd rather have a sun-bleached working tach than a pristine one that doesn't work.

Oh also guyz ... I did check the charging system and the pulse train to the tach from the alternator ... all looks pretty good.

I don't even need the bucket if you want to keep it, but if you have a spare tach laying around, I'll make a good home for it.

k9ctb - at - comcast - dot - net

Thanks and God bless, all ...

[donebysunday]

Originally Posted by neil_x

Hey guyz ...

I'm looking for a working tach for my 81 Special. I am especially saddened because my existing tach has a pristine faceplate ... by pristine, I mean that the redline area is actually red -- not sun-bleached. If I understand other posts correctly, Special tachometers are sealed units, so there's no way to swap internal parts. I'd rather have a sun-bleached working tach than a pristine one that doesn't work.

Oh also guyz ... I did check the charging system and the pulse train to the tach from the alternator ... all looks pretty good.

I don't even need the bucket if you want to keep it, but if you have a spare tach laying around, I'll make a good home for it.

k9ctb - at - comcast - dot - net

Thanks and God bless, all ...

I take them apart and replace, 50/50 chance of not destroying it. Will need 1 working and yours.

[DGXSER]

Hey Neil,

I just recently had a similar problem. I took mine apart. The key is using a small screwdriver to carefully pry the rolled lip of the trim ring up on the back. When your done the back of the trim ring looks like he!!, but once the tack is back in place, no one will ever see it.

In my case, I went to far in my dis assembly (trying to take the core "motor" section out) and ruined it. But it is pretty easy to get the electronics out. I have pics if you want to see them.

[donebysunday]

Originally Posted by DGXSER

Hey Neil,

I just recently had a similar problem. I took mine apart. The key is using a small screwdriver to carefully pry the rolled lip of the trim ring up on the back. When your done the back of the trim ring looks like he!!, but once the tack is back in place, no one will ever see it.

In my case, I went to far in my dis assembly (trying to take the core "motor" section out) and ruined it. But it is pretty easy to get the electronics out. I have pics if you want to see them.

Don's right !
If you do it your self the key is patience and lots of it !!!!! I've done about 20 of them for the XS650 other than the electrics they are pretty much the same.
I made my own tools to do this de-coining of the bezel, 3 small sharpened edges rounded and lightly bent little screw drivers. Round and round the bezel prying ever so slightly very slightly until there is enough room to get the bezel glass, rim and gasket off. Now to changing the face, I use a thin sheet of leather to protect the face finish and pry the needle off with another tool I made ( a fork will work too either way hold the center of the needle down as it will want to fly away when it comes loose ). Index the needle first by gently lifting it over the stop pin ( here is where I'm not sure if the electric tach needs this as the 650 is a sprung unit ). Now if the needle is pried at any angle the chance of breaking off the pin it rides on and leaving you with a a useless needle and broken pin is 50/50. If you get it off OK then then same on the tach with the faded face just 2 screws and jewelers screw driver, lock tite the screws. Super glue ( just a touch ) on the pin or needle hole, set in the correct position push on. A small hammer to re-coin the edge of the bezel, again round and round lightly tapping it back into shape. LUCK !