starting switch wiring question

[PMKXS11]

In the process of wiring my bike, and ran into a little snag. I'm running a newer 06 Suzuki GSXR 600 starter switch and am a little confused on how to splice this in. Would it make sense to use the red/white from the factory harness in place of the orange/white off the switch? I'm a little wary about hooking it up and just trying it out because I'm afraid of damaging the ign controller. On the diagram for the XS, it shows a black/white wire going to the start/stop switch to kill the engine, but on the simplified diagram that's been floating around here, there isn't a black/white wire from the ign controller. To me it makes sense that if the red/white goes to the switch, it would kill power to the coils, and effectively kill the bike, but what would it do to the ign controller?

[crazy steve]

The XS uses a 'ground' wire to activate the starter; in other words, when you push the start button it puts the blue/white wire ground completing the circuit. The other 'side' on the circuit is always 'hot'.

The Suzuki switch is just the opposite. To make this work, you have two choices; either modify the switch, or change the wiring at the solenoid. I suspect the latter choice is easier, to do this connect the yellow/blue? wire from the switch to the blue/white in the harness, then connect the blue/white at the solenoid to ground, and connect the blue/white to the red/white at the solenoid.

If you want to modify the switch (if possible), disconnect the red/white wire from the starter switch contacts, then connect that side of the switch to ground. No other mods will be needed.

[PMKXS11]

Thanks, the starter switch makes sense, but how would I connect the start/stop switch? The original shows a black/white wire going from the ign controller to the switch, and the switch to ground. I'm assuming that grounds the signal to fire the coils?

Could I put the red/white coming out of the fusebox to the orange/white on the switch, and the orange/black to red/white going to the controller?

I've been using this schematic for reference. I have a Kawasaki left hand switch for the lighting/horn/clutch safety switch and it spliced in great. The right one has been putting up a fight.

[crazy steve]

Originally Posted by PMKXS11

Could I put the red/white coming out of the fusebox to the orange/white on the switch, and the orange/black to red/white going to the control...

Yep, that'll work....

[PMKXS11]

Where does the white with red trace go from out of the 8 pin on the tci? I see there is one on the 4 pin but that goes to the advance and all these diagrams only show red with white wires.

[TomB]

By the 4 pin that "goes to the advance" do you mean the pick-up coil wires?

The red/white to the TCI in the 8 pin is the live supply in for normal running, the white/red is the extra live supply to TCI when pressing the starter button on bikes supplied with ballast resistor. I cut that out of the circuit and run without a ballast resistor and 3 ohm coils.

It makes for a very simple system, the brown live from the ignition switch feeds 3 fuses, they supply.....

red/yellow - lights.

red/white - ignition, TCI, coils, starter solenoid, all via the kill switch.

brown - horns etc

[crazy steve]

That's the ballast resistor 'bypass' wire that supplies full voltage to the coils when the starter button is pressed. It goes from the TCI and taps into the red/white wire coming from the kill switch to the coils. You have to peel the tape off the harness to find this tap. If you've bypassed the ballast resistor, this wire isn't needed and can be abandoned in place.

[PMKXS11]

Yes sorry, the pick up coils.
Alright, I have the accel coils, no resistor, and everything wired how described above. I'm not getting any spark. Should I be getting 12v at the orange and gray wires at the coils with the key on and engine start/stop switch on?

Also, the red/yellow from the tci can be eliminated, correct?

[crazy steve]

Originally Posted by PMKXS11

Yes sorry, the pick up coils.
Alright, I have the accel coils, no resistor, and everything wired how described above. I'm not getting any spark. Should I be getting 12v at the orange and gray wires at the coils with the key on and engine start/stop switch on?

Also, the red/yellow from the tci can be eliminated, correct?

You should have battery voltage at the red/white wire at the coils. You'll have less at the orange and gray as you're reading through the primary coil, but still should have voltage. The TCI 'fires' the coils by switching these two wires to ground. Note that if battery voltage drops below about 10.2 when starting the bike, the TCI disconnects the ignition to protect against overcurrent.

Yes, the red/yellow isn't needed with the ballast resistor bypassed.

[TomB]

Originally Posted by crazy steve

Yes, the red/yellow isn't needed with the ballast resistor bypassed.

????? the only red/yellow at the TCI is what I would describe as the yellow/red - one of the pick-up coil wires, which really is needed.

Do you mean the white/red??? this isn't needed with no resistor

[crazy steve]

Tom, there's a red/yellow on the ballast-resistor bikes that comes from the starter terminal on the solenoid (only hot when the starter is engaged) and goes to the TCI to supply full voltage when starting. Goes out to the coils from the TCI on the white/red.

[TomB]

Ah gotcha. Sorry I thought for a minute PMK was removing a pick-up wire, hence the no spark.

[TomB]

Not sure if you have a full size diagram, just in case click pic and click for full size.....

[PMKXS11]

Yea that's what I have, I have it printed out in color.

I've been following that and I'm still not getting any spark. The only difference is the Suzuki switch. Here's how I have it wired:
red/white coming from the fuse box to the orange/white
orange/black from switch to the red/white to the TCI/coils
yellow/green from switch to the clutch switch to the starter solenoid

still no spark though

[crazy steve]

Did it work before you wired in the Suzuki switch? If it did, there's a problem in the switch. Make sure you have full power through the switch in any case. If you have battery voltage on the red/white at the coils and battery voltage on the red/white at the TCI with the kill switch closed and the ignition 'on', then the problem is in either the pickup coils or the TCI on the low voltage side of the circuit, or bad secondary coils in the coils (unlikely, but it would pay to check just to eliminate this).